🔧 Journey - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing engine mounts restores proper engine support and reduces vibration, clunks, and harsh shifting. On your Journey, you’ll typically be dealing with an upper engine-side mount, a transmission-side mount, and a lower “torque strut” (a mount that limits engine rocking during acceleration/braking).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Stock 3.6L layout; mount locations may vary slightly by drivetrain package.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. If the engine drops, it can damage wiring, hoses, exhaust flex joints, or the radiator.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan—do not jack directly on the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
• ⚠️ Let the engine/exhaust cool fully before working near the rear/lower mount.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Metric socket set (10mm-21mm)
• Metric wrench set (10mm-21mm)
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs)
• 1/2" torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs)
• Socket extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Work light

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolt kit - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.
• Position a floor jack with a wood block under the engine oil pan area and apply light support (do not lift yet). A wood block spreads the load so you don’t dent or crack parts.
• If you’ll be working near the starter/positive cable area, disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Gain access to the mounts

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to raise the front and set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove any lower splash shield(s) using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
• In the engine bay, remove the air intake duct/air box as needed using a flat blade screwdriver and 10mm socket.

Step 2: Support and “neutralize” the engine

• Position the floor jack and wood block
• If you have an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the strut towers and tension it to hold the engine from above. This is safer and gives you more room underneath.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount/bracket alignment points so you can reinstall in the same position.
• Tip: Small lifts only—don’t “jack” the engine high.

Step 3: Replace the upper engine mount (engine-side mount)

• Locate the upper mount at the engine side (accessible from the engine bay area).
• Use a metric socket set (10mm-21mm), ratchet, and extensions to remove any components blocking access (as equipped).
• Use a metric socket set (10mm-21mm) to loosen and remove the mount fasteners.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to relieve bolt tension, then remove the mount.
• Install the new upper mount by hand-starting all bolts/nuts first.
• Tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification for your exact fasteners.

Step 4: Replace the transmission mount (transmission-side mount)

• Support the transmission area as needed by shifting the floor jack position (keep the wood block in place to prevent damage).
• Locate the transmission mount on the driver side area (typically accessed from above and/or through the wheel well/lower area).
• Remove any shields/brackets in the way using a metric socket set (10mm-21mm) and ratchet.
• Remove the mount fasteners with a metric socket set (10mm-21mm); use a universal joint adapter if angles are tight.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack to slide the mount free without forcing it.
• Install the new transmission mount, hand-start all fasteners, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification for your exact fasteners.

Step 5: Replace the lower torque strut mount (lower “dogbone” mount)

• Find the lower torque strut (it looks like a short link with bushings; it limits engine rocking).
• Use a metric socket set (10mm-21mm) and breaker bar (use your 1/2" ratchet carefully) to loosen and remove the through-bolts.
• If the bolt is stuck in tension, slightly raise/lower the engine with the floor jack until the bolt slides out smoothly.
• Remove the mount. Install the new torque strut, hand-start bolts, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification for your exact fasteners.
• Tip: If holes don’t line up, change jack height slightly.

Step 6: Reassemble and final-tighten at normal ride height

• Reinstall brackets, shields, and the intake parts using a metric socket set (10mm-21mm) and screwdriver.
• If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• With the engine supported only lightly, lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Re-check fastener tightness with a torque wrench where accessible: Torque to factory specification.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for excessive movement, knocking, or contact with the body.
• Shift through P-R-N-D with your foot firmly on the brake and listen for clunks.
• Take a short test drive. Recheck for new vibrations on acceleration and for any rattles over bumps.
• After the test drive, recheck visible mount fasteners for tightness using a torque wrench.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.