🔧 Town & Country - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Town & Country, the engine is held in place by multiple mounts (engine-side, transmission-side, and torque mounts). Replacing worn mounts reduces vibration, clunks on takeoff, and shifting/acceleration “thumps.”

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing the common set (right engine mount, left trans mount, and torque mounts); exact bolt torques vary by mount/bolt.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the van supported only by a jack—use jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount. If the engine drops, it can damage hoses, wiring, exhaust, or your hands.
• ⚠️ Lift the engine only with a wood block between jack and oil pan. (The oil pan is the bottom metal “sump”; bare jack contact can crack it.)
• ⚠️ Replace mounts one at a time. Do not remove multiple mounts at once.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear when aligning holes—engine can shift suddenly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8, 10-14 in. long)
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Deep sockets 15mm, 18mm
• Ratchet 3/8 in.
• Breaker bar 1/2 in.
• Extensions 3 in., 6 in., 12 in.
• Universal joint swivel adapter
• Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar 12-18 in.
• Penetrating oil
• Marker pen
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover (pull up firmly by hand).
• Plan to support the engine from above with an engine support bar (specialty) or from below with a floor jack and wood block. (An engine support bar holds the engine from the strut towers so you can raise/lower it safely.)
• Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely raise and support the van

• Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the factory jacking point.
• Set the van onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the van to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Support the engine

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the strut towers and attach the hook/chain to a lifting point on the engine.
• If using a jack: place a wood block on the floor jack pad, then raise it until it just contacts the oil pan area and begins to support weight.
• Only support—do not lift high yet.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• Remove the air intake duct/air box pieces for access using an 8mm socket and flathead screwdriver for hose clamps.
• Locate the right engine mount by the passenger-side strut tower.
• Use a marker pen to mark the mount position/alignment on the bracket (helps reassembly).
• Slightly raise or lower the engine with the floor jack to remove tension from the mount bolts (you’re aiming for “bolts turn by hand after break-loose”).
• Remove mount fasteners using 15mm socket, 18mm socket, ratchet 3/8 in., and extensions as needed.
• Lift the mount out. If it’s tight, use a pry bar 12-18 in. gently—do not pry on plastic or wiring.
• Install the new mount by hand-starting all bolts first.
• Tighten fasteners evenly, then final tighten with a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to Chrysler factory specification for each fastener.

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Support the transmission/engine weight still (do not remove support).
• Remove the battery/air inlet/battery tray area as needed for access using a 10mm socket and 13mm socket.
• Locate the transmission mount on the driver-side frame rail area.
• Adjust engine height with the floor jack so mount bolts are not “loaded” (if a bolt binds, change engine height slightly).
• Remove mount bolts using 15mm socket, 18mm socket, breaker bar 1/2 in., and extensions.
• Install the new mount, hand-start all bolts, then tighten with a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to Chrysler factory specification for each fastener.

Step 5: Replace the front torque mount (front “dogbone”)

• The torque mount limits engine rocking. It’s typically lower and accessible from underneath.
• Locate the front torque mount and inspect bushing orientation before removal.
• Remove the through-bolt and bracket bolts using 18mm socket, 21mm socket, breaker bar 1/2 in., and ratchet 3/8 in..
• Install the new torque mount and hand-start bolts.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to Chrysler factory specification for each fastener.

Step 6: Replace the rear torque mount (rear “dogbone”)

• Locate the rear torque mount near the subframe area. Access may require a universal joint swivel adapter and extensions.
• Remove fasteners using 18mm socket, 21mm socket, ratchet 3/8 in., and breaker bar 1/2 in..
• Install the new mount, hand-start all bolts, then tighten with a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to Chrysler factory specification for each fastener.

Step 7: Reinstall removed components

• Reinstall the battery tray and battery using a 10mm socket and 13mm socket.
• Reinstall the intake/air box and tighten clamps with an 8mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall any splash shields using a trim clip removal tool.

Step 8: Remove engine support and lower the van

• Slowly lower the floor jack off the oil pan (or loosen/remove the engine support bar (specialty)).
• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, then lower fully to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for abnormal knocking and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D and feel for clunks. Minor new “tightness” is normal; hard bangs are not.
• Test drive gently. Recheck that intake clamps and battery terminals are tight using a 8mm socket and 10mm socket.
• If vibration is worse than before, one mount may be misaligned—support the engine and re-seat the mount before re-torquing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.