🔧 Traverse - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the drivetrain shift too much, causing clunks on takeoff, vibration in gear, and harsh shifting. On your Traverse, the most commonly replaced mounts are the right (passenger-side) engine mount, the left (driver-side) transmission mount, and the lower torque strut mount(s) that control fore/aft rocking.

Assumption: Replacing the primary mounts (right engine mount + left transmission mount + lower torque strut mount) with OEM-style mounts.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the drivetrain before loosening any mount bolts. Use an engine support bar (specialty) (a bar that holds the engine from above) or a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Never put a jack directly on the oil pan without a wood block; you can crack the pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering/raising the engine slightly to align bolt holes.
• ⚠️ If you remove the battery area for access, disconnect the negative cable first to prevent shorts.
• ⚠️ Many GM mount bolts are torque-to-yield (they stretch once and should be replaced). If your new mount kit includes new bolts, use them.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive torque wrench
• 1/2" drive torque wrench
• Socket set: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm
• Deep socket set: 15mm, 18mm
• Wrench set: 15mm, 18mm
• Extension set: 3", 6", 12"
• Universal swivel joint adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar (small)
• Marker pen or paint marker
• Thread cleaner brush
• Penetrating oil
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolt kit - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount bolt kit - Qty: 1
• Torque strut bolt kit - Qty: 1
• Replacement plastic push-clips (undercover/splash shield) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover (pull up firmly by hand).
• If working near the battery/positive cable area: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it.
• Raise the front of your Traverse with a floor jack and support it with jack stands under the proper lift points.
• Spray visible mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak for 5–10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the drivetrain (critical)

• Position a floor jack under the oil pan with a wood block between the jack pad and pan.
• Jack up gently until you just see the engine lift slightly. Only “take the weight,” don’t raise it.
• If you have an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the strut towers and tension it to hold the engine from above instead of jacking the pan.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the push-clips/bolts.
• Set the shield and clips aside in a tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Replace the lower torque strut mount (controls engine rocking)

• Locate the torque strut mount at the lower front area (between the drivetrain and subframe/radiator support area).
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen and remove the mount bolts.
• If bolt holes don’t line up, raise or lower the engine slightly using the floor jack to relieve bind.
• Install the new torque strut mount and hand-thread all bolts first.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 4: Gain access to the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• From the top of the engine bay, remove any obstructing intake ducting/resonator pieces using a flat-blade screwdriver for clamps and a 10mm socket for bolts (if equipped).
• Use a work light to clearly see the mount, bracket, and through-bolt.
• Use a marker pen to mark the mount/bracket position to help alignment during install.

Step 5: Remove the right engine mount

• Confirm the drivetrain is supported (from Step 1) before loosening bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the mount through-bolt/nut (if equipped).
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket (varies by fastener) with extensions to remove the mount-to-body and mount-to-bracket bolts.
• If the mount won’t come out cleanly, use a pry bar (small) gently while slightly raising/lowering the engine with the floor jack.

Step 6: Install the new right engine mount

• Clean bolt threads lightly with a thread cleaner brush.
• Position the new mount and start all bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Install the through-bolt last if alignment is tight; adjust engine height with the floor jack until it slides in smoothly.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.
• If bolts are “stretch” type, replace them.

Step 7: Gain access to the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• If access is tight near the battery area, disconnect battery negative using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the pieces blocking access (commonly battery hold-down/air ducting) using a 10mm socket and 13mm socket as needed.
• Keep bolts grouped by component so reassembly is easy.

Step 8: Remove the left transmission mount

• Confirm the drivetrain is still supported (from Step 1).
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the mount through-bolt/nut.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with extensions and a universal swivel joint adapter to remove the mount bracket bolts.
• Lift the mount out. If it binds, slightly raise/lower the drivetrain using the floor jack.

Step 9: Install the new left transmission mount

• Set the new mount in place and hand-start all bolts.
• Install the through-bolt once the mount is sitting flat and square.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 10: Reassemble and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall any removed battery/air intake parts using a 10mm socket and 13mm socket.
• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket (if disconnected): Torque to OEM specification.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
• Remove the drivetrain support (engine support bar or jack) slowly.
• Lower the Traverse off the jack stands using the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in Park for 60 seconds. Listen for clunks or rubbing.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift through R and D briefly. Watch for excessive engine movement.
• Road test at low speed first. Verify the original symptoms (clunk/vibration) are improved.
• Recheck all visible mount fasteners after the road test: Torque to OEM specification.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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