How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Chevrolet Tahoe (5.3L V8)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Chevrolet Tahoe (5.3L V8)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


🔧 Tahoe - Engine Mount Replacement
Worn engine mounts can cause clunks on acceleration/braking, vibration at idle, and excessive engine movement. On your Tahoe, the job is mostly about safe support of the engine, creating access, and swapping the left/right mounts one side at a time.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours
Assumption: stock 5.3L K2XX mount layout; verify torque specs with OEM service info.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; the engine can drop and pinch/crush.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands on the frame; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Don’t jack directly on the oil pan without a wood block to spread the load.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the mount “pinch zone” while raising/lowering the engine.
- ⚠️ Let exhaust components cool fully; the mount area can be near hot pipes/shields.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable: remove the 10mm negative terminal.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wood block 2x6 in
- Socket set 10mm-21mm
- Deep socket set 10mm-21mm
- Ratchet 3/8 in drive
- Ratchet 1/2 in drive
- Breaker bar 1/2 in drive
- Torque wrench 1/2 in drive (20-200 ft-lbs) (specialty)
- Extensions set 3 in-12 in
- Wobble extension 3/8 in drive
- Universal joint 3/8 in drive
- Pry bar 18 in
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Left engine mount - Qty: 1
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack and jack stands to support the frame securely.
- Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
- If disconnecting the battery, use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
- Plan to replace mounts one side at a time to keep alignment manageable.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the Tahoe
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the vehicle at the approved front jacking point.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails and lower the vehicle onto the stands.
- Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.
Step 2: Create working access
- Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove any lower air deflectors/splash shields blocking access.
- Use a work light to locate the left and right engine mounts and their fasteners (mount-to-frame, mount-to-engine bracket, and the through-bolt).
Step 3: Support the engine safely
- Place a wood block 2x6 in on the floor jack pad.
- Position the jack/wood under the engine’s lower area so the wood spreads the load (do not point-load a thin edge).
- Jack up just until you see the engine weight slightly taken up.
- Tip: Watch the fan shroud while lifting.
Step 4: Replace the right engine mount (passenger side)
- Use a paint marker to mark the mount position relative to the bracket/frame to help alignment.
- Use a socket set 10mm-21mm, extensions set 3 in-12 in, and wobble extension 3/8 in drive to loosen (do not fully remove yet) the right mount fasteners.
- Use a breaker bar 1/2 in drive if bolts are tight.
- Use the floor jack to raise the engine slightly until the mount through-bolt is free of bind.
- Remove the mount through-bolt using a ratchet 1/2 in drive and appropriate deep socket 10mm-21mm.
- Remove the mount-to-frame fasteners and mount-to-engine bracket fasteners using a ratchet, universal joint 3/8 in drive, and extensions as needed.
- Work the mount out; use an 18 in pry bar gently if needed (a pry bar is a long lever used to shift parts slightly).
- Install the new right mount in the same orientation and start all fasteners by hand.
- Lower/raise the engine with the floor jack until the through-bolt slides in without forcing it.
- Tighten fasteners snug with a ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench 1/2 in drive (a torque wrench tightens bolts to a set force).
- Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) for mount-to-engine bracket bolts (common spec).
- Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for the mount through-bolt/nut (common spec).
- Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) for mount-to-frame fasteners (common spec).
Step 5: Replace the left engine mount (driver side)
- Repeat the same process on the left side using the socket set 10mm-21mm, extensions, universal joint, and breaker bar as needed.
- Use the floor jack to adjust engine height until bolts start by hand easily.
- Final-tighten with the torque wrench.
- Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) for mount-to-engine bracket bolts (common spec).
- Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for the mount through-bolt/nut (common spec).
- Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) for mount-to-frame fasteners (common spec).
Step 6: Reinstall shields/covers and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall any splash shields/air deflectors using the trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver.
- Remove the engine support load by slowly lowering the floor jack from under the engine.
- Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower to the ground.
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal (if removed) using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it idle; watch for excessive movement and listen for clunks.
- With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and listen for abnormal knocks.
- Take a short test drive and recheck for new noises on acceleration and braking.
- After the drive, visually recheck mount areas for shifted hardware and re-torque if required by your hardware kit instructions.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $520-$950 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















