🔧 LaCrosse - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold your engine/transmission in the correct position and absorb vibration. On your LaCrosse, replacing worn mounts reduces clunking on acceleration/braking, shaking at idle, and excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; the drivetrain can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Never put any part of your body under an unsupported engine or vehicle.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine support/jack.
• ⚠️ If you use a floor jack under the oil pan, use a wood block to spread load; do not crush the pan.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; do not rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if working near the starter/positive cable.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Metric socket set (8mm-21mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal swivel adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (small)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop light
• Fender cover
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque strut mount (dogbone mount) - Qty: 1
• Rear engine/transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts (one-time-use where specified) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and install an engine support bar (a bar that spans the fenders and holds the engine from above).
• Lift the front of the car with a floor jack and support it on jack stands at the approved front lift points.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket if you’ll be near main power cables.
• Take photos before removing brackets.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption (for best-fit instructions): This covers the common mount layout on the 3.6L FWD LaCrosse (right engine mount, left trans mount, front torque strut, rear mount). Some hardware/brace layouts vary slightly.

Step 1: Remove lower splash shields (for access)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove push-clips and screws.
• Use a metric socket set (8mm-10mm) and 3/8" ratchet to remove any small bolts.
• Set shields and clips aside in a tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Position the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and attach the hook/chain to the engine lift point.
• Tension the support bar just enough to “take the weight.” Do not lift the engine high yet.
• If needed for fine control, place a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with a wood block lightly under a solid part of the engine (not plastic covers). Raise only until it contacts.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• From the top side, remove any intake ducting or covers blocking the mount using a flathead screwdriver (hose clamps) and metric socket set (8mm-10mm).
• Use a shop light to locate the mount and bracket at the passenger-side of the engine bay.
• Use a metric socket set, extensions set, and 3/8" ratchet to loosen/remove the mount-to-body bolts and mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Use the engine support bar (specialty) adjuster to raise/lower the engine slightly until bolt holes line up and the mount comes out without forcing it.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation. Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to GM specification (use the correct spec for each fastener location).
• Never “pull” alignment in with bolts.

Step 4: Replace the front torque strut mount (dogbone)

• From below (often easiest), locate the front torque strut between the engine/transmission and the subframe.
• Use a metric socket set and breaker bar to remove the two main bolts.
• If the mount is stuck, use a pry bar (small) gently to walk it free (don’t bend brackets).
• Install the new torque strut, start bolts by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to GM specification.

Step 5: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Support the transmission/engine position with the engine support bar (specialty) so the drivetrain cannot shift.
• Remove any brackets/shields blocking access using a metric socket set, extensions set, and universal swivel adapter.
• Remove mount fasteners using a metric socket set and breaker bar.
• Raise/lower the drivetrain slightly with the support bar so the mount slides out without binding.
• Install the new mount and hand-start all fasteners.
• Finish with a torque wrench: Torque to GM specification.

Step 6: Replace the rear engine/transmission mount

• The rear mount is typically accessed from underneath near the subframe.
• Use a shop light to locate it, then remove any shields/braces with a metric socket set.
• Use a metric socket set, extensions set, and breaker bar to remove mount bolts.
• Use the engine support bar (specialty) to slightly rock the drivetrain (tiny up/down changes) until the mount comes free.
• Install the new mount, hand-start bolts, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to GM specification.

Step 7: Reinstall shields/covers and recheck everything

• Reinstall any brackets, intake ducting, and covers using a metric socket set and 3/8" ratchet.
• Reinstall splash shields using a trim clip removal tool, flathead screwdriver, and metric socket set (8mm-10mm).
• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the engine support bar (specialty) only after confirming all mounts are fully installed and tightened.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for excessive movement or new noises.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D and listen for clunks (normal is minimal movement).
• Road test: light acceleration, then moderate acceleration. Recheck for vibration and thumps.
• After the test drive, recheck visible fasteners for seating and inspect for anything contacting the body (heat shields, brackets, intake duct).
• Expect slightly firmer feel with new mounts.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $700-$1,150 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.