🔧 Encore - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Encore, the “engine mounts” are a set of rubber-and-metal supports that hold the engine/transmission in place and control vibration. Replacing worn mounts helps reduce clunks on acceleration/braking, vibration at idle, and harsh shifting.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours

Assumption: Stock 1.4L turbo with the common upper-right mount + lower torque strut layout; exact fastener torque values can vary by mount/bolt revision.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop and damage hoses/wiring.
• 🛑 Never lift the engine by the oil pan without a wood block; the wood spreads the load and helps prevent pan damage.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
• 🛑 Work on level ground with the parking brake on and wheels chocked.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll remove the air intake/ECM connectors near the right-side mount area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 in, 12-18 in long)
• Socket set 8mm-18mm
• Deep socket set 10mm-18mm
• Wrench set 10mm-18mm
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm / 7-150 ft-lbs)
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Extensions 3/8-inch drive (3 in, 6 in, 10 in)
• Swivel/universal joint 3/8-inch drive
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Torx bit set (T20-T30)
• Pry bar (12-18 in)
• Paint marker
• Threadlocker (medium strength)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount (dogbone) - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount (left-side) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Engine mount fasteners (one-time-use, if required by kit/service info) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket if you’ll move wiring near the mount.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Position the floor jack under the engine with the wood block between jack and oil pan. Lift just enough to “take the weight” off the mounts (do not lift the vehicle off the stands).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and Torx T20/T30 bit (varies) to remove the underbody shield fasteners.
• Use a flathead screwdriver for any push-pin centers that need to be popped up.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Use the floor jack and wood block under the oil pan.
• Lift until you see the engine rise slightly and the mount rubber “relax.”
• Only support—don’t jack it high.

Step 3: Replace the lower torque strut mount (dogbone)

• Locate the torque strut at the lower front area connecting the powertrain to the subframe.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount orientation before removal.
• Use a breaker bar and socket set 15mm-18mm (commonly) to remove the two main bolts.
• Remove the torque strut and install the new one in the same orientation.
• Apply medium threadlocker if your replacement instructions call for it.
• Tighten bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification for your exact fasteners.

Step 4: Create access to the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• From the top of the engine bay, remove any air intake ducting that blocks the mount area.
• Use an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver to loosen hose clamps.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any brackets/retainers in the way.
• Take a quick photo before unplugging clips.

Step 5: Unbolt the right engine mount

• The right mount typically attaches to the body (mount-to-body fasteners) and to an engine bracket (mount-to-bracket fasteners).
• With the engine supported, use a ratchet, extensions, and socket set 15mm-18mm (commonly) to loosen the mount fasteners.
• Remove the mount-to-body fasteners first, then the mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• If bolts are very tight, use a breaker bar carefully while keeping the socket fully seated.

Step 6: Remove the mount and install the new right engine mount

• Lift the mount out. You may need a pry bar gently to “walk” it free.
• Set the new mount in place by hand and start all bolts by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Use the floor jack to slightly raise/lower the engine until bolt holes line up easily.
• Snug fasteners using a ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification for your exact fasteners.
• If your kit includes new “torque-to-yield” bolts (one-time-use stretch bolts), install the new bolts only and follow the included angle/torque procedure.

Step 7: Reinstall intake ducts, shields, and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall intake ducting using an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver for clamps.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a Torx bit and trim clip removal tool.
• Lower the engine support jack slowly with the floor jack.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.

Step 8: If replacing the left transmission mount (optional)

• This mount is on the driver side and may require moving the battery tray/related brackets for access.
• Use a 10mm socket for battery terminals/brackets and 13mm-18mm sockets for mount fasteners (commonly).
• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block the entire time.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification for your exact fasteners.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket (if disconnected).
• Start the engine and let it idle in Park. Listen for new clunks, rattles, or vibrating plastic covers.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through R and D. The engine should not “jump” excessively.
• Road test gently: light acceleration, then moderate acceleration. Recheck for noises.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive for any signs of shifting or looseness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor, depending on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: $90-$380 (parts only, depending on how many mounts)

You Save: $360-$820 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-5.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.