🔧 TLX - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing engine mounts on your TLX involves supporting the engine, removing one mount at a time, and installing the new mounts in the same positions. Worn mounts can cause vibration, clunks on acceleration/braking, and excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Assumption: stock 2.4L with standard mount layout; torque values vary by mount/bolt—use OEM torque specs for your exact fasteners.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the engine before removing any mount; never let the engine “hang” on remaining mounts.
• 🛑 Use jack stands under the pinch welds/subframe; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising/lowering the engine.
• 🛑 Allow the exhaust and radiator area to cool before working nearby.
• 🛑 If you remove the battery or work near the starter/positive cable, disconnect the negative battery terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 8mm–19mm
• Deep socket set 10mm–19mm
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal swivel joint (3/8" drive)
• Wrench set 10mm–19mm
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pry bar (12")
• Wood block (2x6" x 12")
• Paint marker
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧱 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🧰 Open the hood and remove any plastic engine covers by hand if equipped.
• 🔋 If you’ll be working near the battery positive cable or starter wiring, use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it.
• 📌 Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and safely support your TLX

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper support points.
• Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove lower splash shields (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out push-clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive) to remove any shield bolts.
• Set all clips/bolts aside in a tray so they don’t get lost.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Place a wood block (2x6" x 12") on the cup of the floor jack.
• Roll the jack under the oil pan area and position the wood block so it spreads the load.
• Slowly raise the jack until it just contacts and supports the engine weight.
• The wood block prevents oil pan damage.
• A “support jack” here means the jack is holding the engine up, not lifting the car.

Step 4: Replace the right-side (passenger-side) engine mount

• From above, remove intake ducting if it blocks access using a flathead screwdriver (hose clamps) and a 10mm socket (brackets).
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount/bracket orientation to help re-align during install.
• Use a socket set 12mm–17mm, extensions set (3", 6", 12"), and ratchet to remove the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a socket set 12mm–17mm to remove the mount-to-engine-bracket fasteners.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to relieve bolt tension and slide the mount out.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation, hand-thread all bolts first, then tighten.
• Finish with a torque wrench and Torque to OEM specification for each fastener.

Step 5: Replace the left-side (driver-side) transmission mount

• Access is typically from above near the transmission-side frame rail; remove any blocking components using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Use a socket set 12mm–19mm, extensions set (3", 6", 12"), and universal swivel joint (3/8" drive) to remove mount fasteners.
• If bolts are tight, use a breaker bar (1/2" drive) carefully (steady pressure, don’t jerk).
• Install the new mount, hand-thread bolts, then tighten evenly.
• Use a torque wrench and Torque to OEM specification for each fastener.

Step 6: Replace the front engine mount

• From underneath, locate the front mount near the front subframe area.
• Use a work light to clearly see the mount bolts.
• Use a socket set 14mm–19mm and ratchet to remove the mount-through bolt(s) and bracket fasteners.
• Use the floor jack to raise/lower the engine slightly until the bolt slides out smoothly.
• Install the new mount, then use a torque wrench and Torque to OEM specification.

Step 7: Replace the rear engine mount

• The rear mount is usually the most cramped; work from underneath.
• Use a socket set 14mm–19mm, deep socket set 10mm–19mm, extensions set (3", 6", 12"), and universal swivel joint (3/8" drive) for access.
• Use a pry bar (12") gently to align the mount holes if needed (do not force the threads).
• Install the new mount and hand-thread all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench and Torque to OEM specification for each fastener.

Step 8: Recheck alignment and reassemble

• Slowly lower the floor jack supporting the engine so the engine settles naturally on the new mounts.
• Recheck that all mount bolts are fully seated, then re-verify with the torque wrench to OEM specification.
• Reinstall any intake parts and brackets using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Reinstall splash shields using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.

Step 9: Lower the car

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car to the ground.
• If disconnected, reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Start the engine and let it idle; check for abnormal vibration or knocking.
• 🧪 With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D and listen for clunks.
• 🚗 Road test at low speed; do a few gentle accelerations and stops.
• 🔩 Recheck mount fasteners after the test drive (engine cool), using a torque wrench to OEM specification.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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