🔧 RDX - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing engine mounts means supporting the engine, unbolting the worn mounts, and installing new ones in the correct order so the drivetrain sits level. On your RDX, there are multiple mounts (engine-side and transmission-side), and worn mounts can cause vibration, clunks on shifts, or a “thump” on takeoff.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: replacing all mounts (right/left/front/rear) as a set.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts or nuts.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; rear mount work is close to hot parts.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan without a wood block; the block spreads the load.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; pinch points are everywhere.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll remove intake parts near wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6 in, 12-18 in long)
• Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Shop light
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Intake manifold/throttle body gaskets (if removed) - Qty: 1
• Replacement plastic clips (splash shield/undertray) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the engine cover (pull upward by hand).
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front and support with jack stands at the factory jack points.
• Install an engine support bar across the strut towers; this tool holds the engine from above so mounts can be removed safely.
• If you do not have an engine support bar, use a floor jack with a wood block under the engine, and lift only enough to “take the weight” (do not crush anything).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove undercovers for access

• Use a trim clip removal tool and Phillips screwdriver to remove the front splash shield/undertray fasteners.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any undertray bolts.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Set the engine support bar hooks/chains to a solid lifting point and apply light tension until the engine just stops “settling.”
• If using a jack, place the wood block on the floor jack pad and lightly support from below.
• Lift only enough to unload the mount.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• Remove any intake ducting or resonator blocking access using a flathead screwdriver (hose clamps) and 10mm socket (brackets).
• Use a paint marker to mark mount/bracket positions so reassembly is easier.
• Use a 14mm-17mm socket (varies by fastener) with extensions to loosen the mount-to-body fasteners and mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar (or floor jack) to remove bolt tension, then remove the fasteners fully.
• Remove the mount. Use a pry bar gently only if it’s stuck.
• Install the new mount and start all fasteners by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• From above/side, remove any brackets or air box pieces blocking access using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Use a 14mm-17mm socket with a universal joint adapter to remove mount fasteners.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the engine support bar so the mount slides out cleanly.
• Install the new mount, hand-start all bolts/nuts, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 5: Replace the front engine mount

• Work from underneath after removing the undertray.
• Use a 14mm-17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount through-bolt and bracket bolts.
• Support the engine height so the long bolt slides out without binding.
• Install the new mount and insert the through-bolt by hand first.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 6: Replace the rear engine mount

• The rear mount is the hardest to access; use a shop light and plan for tight angles.
• Use a 14mm-17mm socket, extensions, and a universal joint adapter to reach the fasteners.
• Raise/lower the engine slightly to remove bind, then remove the mount.
• Install the new mount, start fasteners by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.
• Take breaks; rushed rear-mount work strips bolts.

Step 7: Settle the drivetrain, then final-torque

• With all mounts installed and snug, lower the engine so it rests naturally.
• Use a torque wrench to re-check every mount fastener: Torque to OEM specification.
• Reinstall any intake parts using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.

Step 8: Reinstall undercovers and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the undertray using a 10mm socket and Phillips screwdriver.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket: Torque to OEM specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in Park; listen for clunks or rubbing.
• With your foot on the brake, shift R → D → R slowly; watch for excessive engine movement.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm vibrations are improved and no new noises appear.
• Re-check undertray fasteners after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.