🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Tucson involves safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mount, and installing a new mount without stressing the drivetrain. Engine mounts hold the engine in position and absorb vibration, so bad mounts can cause clunks, shaking at idle, or harsh shifting feel.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before any mount is removed. Never remove a mount with the engine unsupported.
• ⚠️ Use a wide wood block between the jack and oil pan to spread the load. Do not lift directly on the bare oil pan.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. Removing multiple mounts together can let the engine shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the engine, mount brackets, and body while adjusting engine height.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns from the exhaust manifold, radiator, or cooling fans.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or battery tray area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3/8-inch extension 6-inch
• 1/2-inch extension 6-inch
• Torque wrench 10-100 Nm
• Torque wrench 40-200 Nm
• Combination wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Plastic trim removal tool
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Work light
• Paint marker
• Magnetic parts tray
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Lower splash shield clips - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Tucson on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• 🧰 Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• 📝 A roll stopper mount is a mount that controls engine rocking during acceleration and shifting.
• 📝 An engine support bar is a tool that holds the engine from above while a mount is removed.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal.
• Move the cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back.
• During reassembly, tighten the negative terminal to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side pinch weld jack points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the splash shield bolts.
• Use a plastic trim removal tool to remove the plastic push clips.
• Set the shield aside and place hardware in a magnetic parts tray.
• For reassembly, tighten splash shield bolts to Torque to 7-9 Nm (62-80 in-lbs).

Step 4: Support the Engine Safely

• Position the engine support bar (specialty) across the upper body structure according to the tool instructions.
• Attach the support chains to safe engine lifting points.
• Lightly tension the support bar. Do not lift the vehicle body.
• Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Raise the jack gently under the oil pan only until it just supports the engine.
• Support, don’t lift hard.

Step 5: Mark Mount Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount bracket before removal.
• These marks help align the new mounts and reduce vibration after installation.

Step 6: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• The right engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any intake duct or cover blocking access.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 1/2-inch extension 6-inch to loosen the mount-to-body and mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment. Do not force the engine sideways.
• Remove the old right engine mount.
• Install the new right engine mount and start all bolts by hand first.
• Use a torque wrench 40-200 Nm to tighten the mount-to-body fasteners to Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 40-200 Nm to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• The left transmission mount is on the driver side, near the transmission and battery tray area.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the battery hold-down.
• Lift the battery straight up using both hands and set it safely aside.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the battery tray bolts if access is blocked.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 1/2-inch extension 6-inch to remove the transmission mount fasteners.
• Adjust the engine/transmission height slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the bolts slide out smoothly.
• Remove the old left transmission mount.
• Install the new left transmission mount and hand-start every fastener.
• Use a torque wrench 40-200 Nm to tighten mount fasteners to Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).
• Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 Nm to tighten battery tray bolts to Torque to 9-12 Nm (80-106 in-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 Nm to tighten the battery hold-down to Torque to 7-9 Nm (62-80 in-lbs).

Step 8: Replace the Front Roll Stopper Mount

• Work from underneath the front of your Tucson.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 1/2-inch breaker bar, and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the front roll stopper mount bolts.
• If the bolts are tight, use steady pressure with the 1/2-inch breaker bar. A breaker bar is a long handle that gives more leverage.
• Remove the old front roll stopper mount.
• Install the new front roll stopper mount and hand-start the bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 40-200 Nm to tighten the roll stopper bolts to Torque to 98-118 Nm (72-87 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Replace the Rear Roll Stopper Mount

• Locate the rear roll stopper mount at the rear lower side of the powertrain.
• Use a work light to check the bolt path before removing anything.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 21mm socket, 1/2-inch breaker bar, and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the rear roll stopper mount bolts.
• Use a combination wrench set 10mm-19mm if socket clearance is limited.
• Remove the old rear roll stopper mount.
• Install the new rear roll stopper mount and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 40-200 Nm to tighten the rear roll stopper bolts to Torque to 98-118 Nm (72-87 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Final Mount Alignment

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to very slightly raise or lower the engine so the mounts sit naturally.
• Use the paint marker reference marks to confirm the brackets are close to their original positions.
• Use a torque wrench 40-200 Nm to recheck all mount fasteners after alignment.
• Remove the engine support bar (specialty) only after all mounts are fully tightened.

Step 11: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Lift the splash shield into place by hand.
• Install new lower splash shield clips where any clips broke during removal.
• Use a plastic trim removal tool to seat the clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 Nm to tighten splash shield bolts to Torque to 7-9 Nm (62-80 in-lbs).

Step 12: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 Nm to tighten the terminal to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle in Park. Watch for abnormal shaking or knocking.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. The engine should move only slightly.
• ✅ Take a short test drive and listen for clunks during acceleration, braking, and low-speed turns.
• ✅ Recheck the mount area for loose hardware after the first test drive.
• ✅ If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and one-touch window function if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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