🔧 GLE - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts can cause vibration at idle, clunks when shifting from Park to Drive/Reverse, and extra movement when accelerating. On your GLE, the mounts sit low on each side of the engine and must be swapped while the engine is safely supported.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount bolts; the engine can drop and damage wiring, exhaust, or the radiator.
• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use properly rated jack stands.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely; the mounts are near hot components.
• ⚠️ If using a floor jack under the oil pan, always use a wood block; never jack directly on the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cables: disconnect the negative terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6 in. minimum)
• Socket set (8mm–18mm)
• E-Torx socket set (E10–E14)
• Torx bit set (T25–T40)
• Ratchet (3/8 in.)
• Breaker bar (1/2 in.)
• Extensions (3 in., 6 in., 12 in.)
• Universal joint adapter (3/8 in.)
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts (single-use stretch bolts, kit) - Qty: 1
• Front underbody shield fastener clips (as needed) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items around the engine bay.
• If disconnecting the battery: use a socket to remove the negative terminal first and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Plan how you will support the engine:
  • Use an engine support bar (specialty) across the fenders (best option).
  • If you must use a floor jack, place a wood block between the jack pad and the engine’s safe lifting area; never lift directly on the oil pan.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your GLE at the proper front jacking point.
• Set it down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the factory support points.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before going under.

Step 2: Remove the front underbody shields

• Use a Torx bit set (T25–T40) and socket set (8mm–18mm) to remove the fasteners holding the undertray(s).
• Use a trim clip removal tool for plastic clips to avoid breaking them.
• Set the shields and fasteners aside in a tray in the order removed.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the fender rails and attach the support hook/chain to a solid engine lifting point.
• Tighten the support bar until it just takes the weight of the engine.
• Only “take the load,” don’t lift yet.
• Tool definition: An engine support bar holds the engine from above while mounts are removed.

Step 4: Locate the left and right engine mounts

• Use a work light to look up from underneath on each side of the engine.
• The mounts sit between the engine bracket and the subframe.
• Identify each mount’s top fastener(s) (engine side) and bottom fastener(s) (subframe side).

Step 5: Loosen (do not remove) both mounts’ fasteners first

• Use an E-Torx socket set (E10–E14), ratchet (3/8 in.), and extensions (3 in., 6 in., 12 in.) to break the top fasteners loose.
• Use a socket set (8mm–18mm) and breaker bar (1/2 in.) as needed to loosen the bottom fasteners.
• Leave all bolts threaded a few turns so nothing shifts unexpectedly.

Step 6: Lift the engine slightly to unload the mounts

• Use the adjuster on the engine support bar (specialty) to lift the engine just enough to create a small gap at the mounts.
• Watch hoses, wiring, and the fan/shroud area as you lift.
• Lift slowly—millimeters matter here.

Step 7: Remove the right engine mount

• Use an E-Torx socket set (E10–E14) to remove the top fastener(s) from the mount.
• Use a socket set (8mm–18mm) to remove the bottom fastener(s) at the subframe.
• Remove the mount by working it out carefully; use a universal joint adapter (3/8 in.) if access is tight.

Step 8: Install the new right engine mount

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all fasteners by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Snug the fasteners using a ratchet (3/8 in.) but do not final-torque yet.
• Torque to Mercedes-Benz specification using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm).

Step 9: Remove and replace the left engine mount

• Repeat the same process on the left side using the E-Torx socket set (E10–E14), socket set (8mm–18mm), extensions (3 in., 6 in., 12 in.), and universal joint adapter (3/8 in.).
• Install the new mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Torque to Mercedes-Benz specification using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm).

Step 10: Set the engine back onto the new mounts

• Slowly lower the engine using the engine support bar (specialty) until it fully rests on the mounts.
• Re-check that the mounts sit squarely in their pockets and that no wiring or hoses are pinched.
• Re-check final torque on all mount fasteners using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm) and ratchet (3/8 in.).

Step 11: Reinstall underbody shields

• Reinstall the undertray(s) using the Torx bit set (T25–T40) and socket set (8mm–18mm).
• Replace any broken clips using your trim clip removal tool and new fasteners.

Step 12: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower the vehicle gently.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; vibrations should be noticeably reduced.
• With your foot on the brake, shift slowly through Park > Reverse > Drive; listen for clunks.
• Test drive and check for new noises on acceleration and bumps.
• Re-check underneath for any disturbed wiring, heat shields, or fluid leaks.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and auto-up/down window function (hold window switch up for a few seconds after fully closed).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Assumption: Standard factory engine mounts and undertrays (no aftermarket skid plates).