🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. When they tear or collapse, you may feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration at idle, or harsh shifting. The key is to support the engine safely and replace mounts one at a time so nothing shifts out of position.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing all main mounts (right engine mount, left transmission mount, lower rear roll stopper).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; never let it “hang” on hoses or wiring.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands—never work under a vehicle held by a jack only.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine with the jack.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust/turbo area cool fully before working near it.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative terminal to reduce short-circuit risk.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 in, 12 in long)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Metric socket set 10mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 3/8 in ratchet
• 1/2 in breaker bar
• Socket extensions set (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
• Universal joint swivel (3/8 in)
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Trim clip remover tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Shop light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so alignment stays close.
• If using an engine support bar: it spans the fenders and holds the engine from above (safer and steadier than a jack).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and access the underside

• Loosen any plastic underbody fasteners using a trim clip remover tool and flathead screwdriver.
• Raise the front of your Tucson using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set it securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the factory jack points.
• Remove the lower splash shield/undertray using a 10mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the top engine cover and clear working room

• Pull the engine cover up (it’s held by grommets) using both hands; use a shop light to confirm nothing is still clipped.
• If any brackets or small harness clips block access to the mount area, release them carefully using a trim clip remover tool.
• Mark the position of any brackets you move using a paint marker.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Preferred: Install the engine support bar (specialty) and take up the engine weight until you see the engine barely lift.
• Alternate: Place a wood block (2x6 in, 12 in long) on the floor jack and gently support the engine from underneath at the oil pan area with the wood spreading the load.
• Raise just enough to remove “load” from the mount bolts—do not lift the engine high.

Step 4: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• Locate the right mount at the passenger-side of the engine bay (near the timing cover side).
• Remove any mount-to-body fasteners using a 14mm socket and 3/8 in ratchet.
• Remove mount-to-engine bracket fasteners using a 17mm socket, extensions set (3 in, 6 in, 12 in), and universal joint swivel (3/8 in) as needed.
• Lift the mount out; you may need to slightly raise/lower the engine using the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to line up holes.
• Install the new mount by hand-starting all bolts first.
• Tighten fasteners evenly, then final-torque with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range):
  • Mount-to-body bolts: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-engine bracket bolts/nuts: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Tip: If bolts won’t start, change engine height 2-3 mm.

Step 5: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Locate the left mount on the driver-side, on top of the transmission area.
• Keep the engine supported (do not remove support yet).
• Remove mount-to-body fasteners using a 14mm socket and breaker bar if tight.
• Remove mount-to-transmission bracket fasteners using a 17mm socket with extensions set (3 in, 6 in, 12 in).
• Remove the mount and install the replacement, hand-starting all bolts.
• Final-torque with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range):
  • Mount-to-body bolts: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-transmission bracket bolts/nuts: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Replace the lower rear roll stopper mount (underneath)

• This mount limits engine “rock” (twisting) during acceleration. It’s accessed from underneath.
• Locate the roll stopper near the rear of the engine/transmission assembly.
• Remove the through-bolt first using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Remove the bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8 in ratchet.
• Install the new roll stopper mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Final-torque with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range):
  • Roll stopper bracket bolts: Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)
  • Roll stopper through-bolt: Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Reassemble and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the undertray using a 10mm socket and the original clips.
• Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it onto the grommets.
• Remove the engine support load (or lower the jack) slowly.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle 1-2 minutes; listen for clunks or rattles.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D briefly; note any new harshness.
• Test drive slowly and do a few gentle starts/stops; recheck for any loosened fasteners.
• If you feel strong vibration at idle, recheck that all mount bolts are fully seated and torqued evenly.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.