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2015 Subaru Impreza
2015 Subaru Impreza
Base - Flat 4 2.0L
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Installing Subaru Group N Engine Mounts Made Easy

Installing Subaru Group N Engine Mounts Made Easy

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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015 Subaru Impreza (Left & Right)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015 Subaru Impreza (Left & Right)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

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đź”§ Impreza - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine rock under throttle and shifting, which can cause clunks, vibration, and sloppy feel. On your Impreza, the left and right engine mounts sit between the engine and the front crossmember, and you’ll swap them one side at a time while the engine is safely supported.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: Replacing both left and right engine mounts (not the transmission mount).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Use jack stands on solid points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • Support the engine with a floor jack + wood block; do not jack directly on aluminum parts without wood.
  • Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; pinch risk.
  • Let the exhaust cool fully before working underneath.
  • Battery disconnect is not required, but remove the key and keep the car in neutral with wheels chocked.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Wood block (2x4 or similar)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
  • Socket set: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Wrench set: 14mm, 17mm
  • Extensions: 3" and 6"
  • Universal swivel joint
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Flashlight
  • Penetrating oil

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Left engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Right engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount self-locking nuts - Qty: 4

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly with a 19mm socket if you plan to remove wheels for more access.
  • Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and set it securely on jack stands.
  • Remove the lower engine splash shield (undertray) using a trim clip removal tool and 12mm socket.
  • Position the floor jack under the engine with a wood block to spread the load.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine

  • Place the wood block on the floor jack pad.
  • Gently jack up until the wood just contacts the engine’s lower surface; you are supporting weight, not lifting yet.
  • Lift only 5–15 mm at a time.

Step 2: Loosen the mount-to-crossmember nuts (both sides)

  • From underneath, locate each engine mount where it meets the front crossmember.
  • Spray threads with penetrating oil and wait 2–3 minutes.
  • Use a 14mm socket, ratchet, and extension to loosen (do not remove yet) the lower nuts on both mounts.

Step 3: Create clearance by slightly lifting the engine

  • Use the floor jack to lift the engine slightly until you see the mounts unload (you’ll often see a small gap change at the mount studs).
  • If anything binds, stop and re-check that nothing is pulling tight (hoses/wiring).

Step 4: Replace the right engine mount (passenger side)

  • Remove the lower mount nut using a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the mount fasteners at the engine-side bracket using a 14mm socket, extension, and universal swivel joint as needed.
  • Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to slide the mount out.
  • Install the new right mount in the same orientation.
  • Hand-start all fasteners to avoid cross-threading.
  • Torque mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
  • Torque mount-to-crossmember nut to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Replace the left engine mount (driver side)

  • Remove the lower mount nut using a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the mount fasteners at the engine-side bracket using a 14mm socket, extension, and universal swivel joint as needed.
  • Adjust engine height with the floor jack to slide the mount out and the new mount in.
  • Hand-start all fasteners first.
  • Torque mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
  • Torque mount-to-crossmember nut to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Lower the engine and re-check alignment

  • Slowly lower the engine using the floor jack until it rests naturally on both mounts.
  • Visually confirm both mount studs sit centered through the crossmember holes.
  • Re-check all mount fasteners with the torque wrench.

Step 7: Reinstall undertray and wheels (if removed)

  • Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip removal tool, flathead screwdriver, and 12mm socket.
  • If wheels were removed, reinstall and snug lug nuts with a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque wheel lug nuts to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

âś… After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle; listen for new rattles or contact noises.
  • With the hood open, blip the throttle lightly; engine movement should be reduced.
  • Test drive and check for clunks during takeoff and shifts.
  • After the test drive, re-check for any loose fasteners and inspect the mounts for proper seating.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $440-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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