🔧 Forte - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and soak up vibration. When they wear out, you’ll feel shaking at idle, clunks on shifts, or a “thump” on acceleration/braking. Assumption: torque values below are common OEM-style specs for this platform—verify with Kia service information if you have access.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; the engine can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Never jack directly on the oil pan; use a wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on the pinch welds/subframe; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points between the mount and brackets.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll remove the battery/air intake parts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal swivel socket adapter
• Pry bar (small)
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) upper transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Engine/trans mount hardware kit (bolts/nuts) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.
• Set up your floor jack with a wood block; the wood block prevents damage while supporting the engine.
• If removing the battery: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative terminal first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove top-side access parts

• Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover (if equipped) by pulling upward by hand.
• Remove the air intake snorkel/ducting using a Phillips screwdriver #2 and trim clip removal tool.
• Loosen the intake hose clamp with a flathead screwdriver and move the air box/ducting out of the way as needed.
• If needed for space, remove the battery and tray using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket. Take a photo of cable routing.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Position the floor jack under the engine with the wood block between the jack pad and the engine’s lower casting.
• Jack up just until you see the engine weight lightly supported (the car should not lift).
• This is a “support,” not a lift—keep the jack under light tension while mounts are off.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) upper engine mount

• Locate the upper mount near the passenger-side strut tower area.
• Remove any brackets/lines blocking access using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Remove the mount-to-body fasteners using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners using a 17mm socket and extensions.
• Lift the mount out. If it’s tight, use a pry bar (small) gently to free it.
• Install the new mount in place and start all bolts by hand.
• Snug fasteners, then torque:
  • Mount-to-body bolts: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-bracket/engine bolts: Torque to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) upper transmission mount

• With the engine still supported, work on the mount near the driver-side frame rail (often easier with the battery tray removed).
• Remove the mount-to-body bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove mount-to-transmission/bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and universal swivel socket adapter if needed.
• Swap in the new mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Torque:
  • Mount-to-body bolts: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-bracket/trans bolts: Torque to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Raise and support the vehicle for the lower mounts

• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Lift the front of the car using the floor jack at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car on jack stands and confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 6: Replace the front lower torque strut mount

• Find the front lower mount (a “torque strut,” which is a small mount that controls engine rocking) near the front of the subframe.
• Remove the through-bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the bracket bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Install the new mount, hand-start bolts, then torque:
  • Through-bolt: Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)
  • Bracket bolts: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Replace the rear lower torque strut mount

• Locate the rear lower mount toward the back of the subframe (often the tightest one).
• Remove the fasteners using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket with extensions.
• If bolt holes don’t line up, slightly raise/lower the engine support jack to relieve tension. Small jack movements make big alignment changes.
• Install the new mount and torque:
  • Through-bolt: Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)
  • Bracket bolts: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Reinstall intake, battery, and final checks

• Reinstall the battery tray and battery using a 12mm socket and 10mm socket.
• Reconnect battery terminals using a 10mm socket (positive first, negative last).
• Reinstall the air box/ducting and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver and Phillips screwdriver #2.
• Remove the engine support load by slowly lowering the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Expect a slightly different feel for the first minute as it settles.
• With your foot on the brake, shift P → R → D and listen for clunks.
• Test drive gently and check for new vibrations or knocking on acceleration and braking.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive for anything obviously loose.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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