🔧 Wrangler - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine lift and twist, which can cause clunks, vibration, and shifting issues—especially with a manual transmission. You’ll support the engine safely, remove one mount at a time, and install the new mounts without letting the engine move too far.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: torque specs below are typical for your Wrangler; verify with factory service info if available.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Jeep on jack stands on level ground; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount hardware; an unsupported engine can drop and pinch wiring/hoses.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and brackets while jacking; mounts can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely; the pipes and catalytic converters can burn you.
• ⚠️ If you remove the starter power cable cover or touch main power wiring, disconnect negative battery terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Socket set: 13mm, 15mm, 16mm, 18mm
• Wrench set: 15mm, 16mm, 18mm
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs)
• Trim clip tool
• Flashlight
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount (passenger side) - Qty: 1
• Left engine mount (driver side) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on visible engine-mount nuts/bolts and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.
• Set up your engine support: place a wood block on a floor jack saddle; this spreads the load and helps protect the oil pan.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the Jeep

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front.
• Set the frame securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently lower the Jeep onto them.
• Leave the floor jack available for engine support.

Step 2: Remove the front skid plate (if equipped)

• Use a 18mm socket with a breaker bar (1/2") to remove skid-plate bolts.
• Support the plate with one hand while removing the last bolts, then lower it carefully.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the oil pan with the wood block (2x6 or 2x8) between the jack and pan.
• Jack up slowly until the wood block just contacts and lightly supports the engine.
• Do not lift the Jeep off stands.

Step 4: Replace the passenger-side engine mount

• Locate the passenger-side mount between the engine bracket and frame bracket using a flashlight.
• Remove the mount’s through-bolt/nut:
  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench (one side holds the bolt, the other turns the nut).
  • If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine with the floor jack to relieve tension.
• Remove the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners:
  • Use a 15mm socket with extensions (6", 12") and a universal joint adapter as needed.
• Remove the mount-to-frame fasteners:
  • Use a 15mm socket or 16mm socket (varies by hardware).
• Work the mount out:
  • Raise the engine slightly with the floor jack to create clearance, then pull the mount out by hand.
• Install the new passenger-side mount:
  • Position the new mount in place by hand.
  • Start all bolts/nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Snug fasteners with a ratchet (3/8") only (do not final-torque yet).
• Align and install the through-bolt:
  • Use the floor jack to raise/lower the engine until the bolt slides through smoothly.
• Final torque passenger-side fasteners with a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs):
  • Through-bolt/nut: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-engine bracket bolts: Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-frame bolts/nuts: Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Replace the driver-side engine mount

• Repeat the same process on the driver side using a flashlight.
• Remove the through-bolt/nut with an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
• Remove mount fasteners with a 15mm socket and extensions (3", 6", 12"); use a universal joint adapter if access is tight.
• Raise/lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to relieve bind and line up the mount holes.
• Final torque driver-side fasteners with a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs):
  • Through-bolt/nut: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-engine bracket bolts: Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-frame bolts/nuts: Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Reinstall skid plate

• Lift the skid plate into position and start all bolts by hand.
• Tighten with an 18mm socket and final torque with a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs): Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Lower the engine and Jeep

• Slowly lower the engine support using the floor jack until the engine rests fully on the new mounts.
• Raise the Jeep slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for any new clunks or rattles.
• With the hood open, lightly blip the throttle in neutral and watch for excessive engine lift; a small amount is normal.
• Test drive and check for vibration under acceleration and on decel.
• Re-check all visible mount fasteners for tightness after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $440-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.