🔧 Civic - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine and transmission move too much, which can cause clunks on takeoff, vibration at idle, and harsh shifting. On your Civic, you’ll replace mounts one at a time while the engine is safely supported.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: steps/torques shown match the common 1.8L layout; verify if anything differs on your car.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount, or you can damage parts and hurt yourself.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a car held only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine—small movements can pinch.
• ⚠️ If using a floor jack under the oil pan, always use a wood block to spread the load (prevents cracking the pan).
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the battery/battery tray.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Metric socket set 10mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Extensions 3-inch and 6-inch
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Phillips screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Install wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and remove any plastic engine cover using a flat trim tool if equipped.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.
• An engine support bar holds the engine from above (safer than jacking the oil pan). If you don’t have one, you can support from below with a floor jack and wood block, moving slowly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine safely

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and tension it until it just starts to carry the engine’s weight.
• If supporting from below instead: place a wood block on the floor jack pad, then gently lift under the engine (light pressure only).
• Lift only enough to remove mount load.

Step 2: Raise the car for access (for lower mounts)

• Lift the front with a floor jack at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands.
• Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped) using a flat trim tool and Phillips screwdriver.

Step 3: Replace the right engine mount (passenger-side, upper)

• Remove the intake duct/air box section for room as needed using a Phillips screwdriver and 10mm socket.
• Remove the mount fasteners using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket (use extensions as needed).
• Slowly raise or lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar (or floor jack) to line up bolt holes, then remove the mount.
• Install the new mount and start all bolts/nuts by hand using your fingers (prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench:
  • Mount-to-body nuts/bolts: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)
  • Mount/bracket-to-engine bolts: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)
  • Mount through-bolt: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Replace the left transmission mount (driver-side, upper)

• Remove the battery hold-down and battery using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the battery tray using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Remove the mount fasteners using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the engine support bar (or floor jack) until the mount slides out without forcing it.
• Install the new mount, hand-start all fasteners, then torque with a torque wrench:
  • Mount-to-body nuts/bolts: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)
  • Mount/bracket-to-transmission bolts: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)
  • Mount through-bolt: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Replace the rear torque mount (lower, near subframe)

• From under the car, locate the rear torque mount (it limits engine “rocking”).
• Remove bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• If the bolts are tight to access, use a universal joint socket adapter with extensions.
• Use a pry bar gently if the mount is stuck in its bracket (do not pry on thin aluminum parts).
• Install the new rear mount and torque with a torque wrench:
  • Rear mount bracket bolts: Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs)
  • Rear mount through-bolt/nut: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Replace the front torque mount (lower, front side)

• Locate the front torque mount from under the car.
• Remove bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the engine support bar (or floor jack) so the bolt slides out smoothly.
• Install the new front mount and torque with a torque wrench:
  • Front mount bracket bolts: Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs)
  • Front mount through-bolt/nut: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Reassemble and set the engine down

• Reinstall the splash shield using a flat trim tool and Phillips screwdriver.
• Reinstall the battery tray and battery using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Release and remove the engine support bar (or remove the floor jack support) slowly.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift Park → Reverse → Drive and feel for abnormal banging (a small normal movement is OK).
• Road test at low speed. Confirm takeoff is smooth and vibration is improved.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive using a torque wrench (do not over-tighten).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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