🔧 Escape - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Escape uses multiple mounts (an upper passenger-side engine mount, a driver-side transmission mount, and a lower rear “torque” mount). The steps and torque specs are different depending on which one you’re replacing, and I don’t want you to loosen the wrong bracket and stress the turbo/exhaust or driveline.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.0 hours (per mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; an engine can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and brackets while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; the turbo/exhaust area can be very hot.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if working near the starter/positive cables.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Metric socket set (8mm-21mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs)
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal swivel joint (3/8")
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6")

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Driver-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and remove any plastic engine cover using a flathead screwdriver or by pulling upward (if equipped).
• If you’ll be near the battery cables, disconnect the negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Plan your engine support method:
  • Engine support bar spans the fenders and holds the engine from above (safest).
  • A floor jack can support the engine from below using a wood block under the oil pan (the wood spreads the load).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount you’re replacing (required)

• Please tell me which mount: upper passenger-side, driver-side transmission, or lower rear torque mount.
• Also tell me what you’ll use to support the engine: engine support bar or floor jack + wood block.

Step 2: Do not loosen mount bolts yet

• Until I know which mount, I don’t want you removing the wrong bracket or loosening a mount that’s currently holding alignment.
• Once you confirm the mount location, I’ll give you the exact bolt locations, removal order, and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for your Escape.

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✅ After Repair

• After the mount is replaced, you’ll re-check clearances (hoses, wiring, downpipe area), then start the engine and confirm idle vibration is improved.
• I’ll include the specific test steps (including a quick power-brake check) after you confirm which mount you’re doing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$900 (parts + labor, depending on which mount)

DIY Cost: $60-$250 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.