🔧 WRX - Engine Mount Replacement

The engine mounts are the rubber-and-metal supports that hold your engine to the front subframe and reduce vibration. Replacing worn mounts can fix clunks on throttle changes, excess vibration, and shifting/launch “jerkiness.”

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack—use jack stands on solid points.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing mount hardware. If it drops, it can damage hoses/wiring and injure you.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine; pinch points are severe around the subframe and mounts.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely; the turbo/exhaust area can stay hot a long time.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended to avoid accidental shorting near the starter/ground cables.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Extensions (3" and 6")
• Universal swivel joint
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Floor jack rubber pad
• Wood block (2x6, 12"-18" long)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (left) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount (right) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit (nuts/bolts) - Qty: 1
• Pitch stop mount (optional but recommended if cracked) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the key from the car.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and set it aside.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: an engine support bar holds the engine from above (safer). If you use a floor jack, use a wood block between the jack and the oil pan to spread the load.
• Soak mount fasteners with penetrating oil first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the WRX

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car at the front center jacking point.
• Set the car down securely on jack stands placed at the approved front support points.
• Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the undertray / splash shield

• Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any bolts holding the undertray.
• Set the tray and hardware aside in a neat pile.

Step 3: Loosen the pitch stop mount (top of engine)

• The pitch stop is the small “dogbone” bracket between the engine and firewall that limits engine rocking.
• From the top, use a 14mm socket to loosen (or remove) the pitch stop bolts.
• Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 4: Support the engine

• Preferred method: Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and attach the hook/chain to a solid lift point. Take up slack until the engine just starts to “float.”
• Alternate method: Place a wood block on a floor jack and gently contact the oil pan. Lift only enough to support the engine—do not dent the pan.
• Support first, then remove mount bolts.

Step 5: Remove the engine mount-to-crossmember nuts (bottom)

• From underneath, locate the bottom of each engine mount on the crossmember.
• Use a 14mm socket with extensions as needed to remove the nuts (one per side).
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the engine mount through-bolts (if equipped)

• Depending on the mount/bracket setup, you may have a bolt that passes through the mount into the bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar (and a universal swivel joint if needed) to remove the bolt(s).
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 7: Lift the engine slightly to free the mounts

• Use the engine support bar adjuster or the floor jack to raise the engine slowly in small increments.
• Watch the radiator hoses, intercooler/turbo plumbing, wiring, and exhaust clearance while lifting.
• Lift only enough so the mount studs clear the crossmember.

Step 8: Remove and replace the mounts

• Use a work light to confirm which mount is left vs right.
• Remove the mount(s) and compare to the new parts (stud locations and heat shields must match).
• Install the new mounts in the same orientation.
• Use a paint marker for alignment marks.

Step 9: Lower the engine onto the new mounts and start all fasteners by hand

• Lower the engine slowly until the studs drop cleanly into the crossmember holes.
• Start the crossmember nuts by hand using your fingers first, then snug with a 14mm socket.
• Reinstall any through-bolts by hand first, then snug with a 17mm socket.

Step 10: Torque fasteners and reassemble

• Use a torque wrench to torque the mount-to-crossmember nuts: Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to torque mount through-bolts (if equipped): Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to torque the pitch stop bolts: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the undertray using a 10mm socket and trim clip remover.
• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you listen for new knocks, rubbing, or exhaust contact.
• With the clutch in, gently blip the throttle and watch for excessive engine movement.
• Test drive slowly first; check for clunks during on/off throttle and during shifts.
• Recheck all mount fasteners after 1-2 heat cycles (a couple short drives) for peace of mind.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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