🔧 Yukon - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. When they wear out, you may feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration at idle, or see the engine shift more than normal. This job involves safely supporting the engine, removing the old mounts, and installing the new ones.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before loosening mount bolts, or components can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan without a wood block; you can crack the pan.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; the mount area can be near hot parts.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended: remove the negative cable to reduce short-risk near wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Work light
• Socket set: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Swivel socket adapter (universal joint)
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Pry bar (18"-24")
• Trim clip tool
• Wood block (2x6" or similar)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolt kit - Qty: 1
• Splash shield/skid plate fastener clips - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items around the engine bay.
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Plan your support method: an engine support bar is a crossbar that holds the engine from above; it’s the safest way for this job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the Yukon

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Lift the front with a floor jack at the approved front jacking point.
• Set the frame on jack stands and gently lower the Yukon onto them.

Step 2: Remove lower covers for access

• Remove any front skid plate and lower splash shields using a 13mm socket and trim clip tool.
• Set bolts/clips aside in a tray so you don’t lose them.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Preferred: install the engine support bar (specialty) across the fender rails and lightly tension it to take engine weight.
• Alternate: position a floor jack under the engine with a wood block between the jack pad and the oil pan, then raise just enough to “kiss” the pan. Only lift a little at a time.

Step 4: Remove the left engine mount fasteners

• Locate the left mount at the frame perch.
• Remove the mount through-bolt/nut using an 18mm socket and breaker bar as needed.
• Remove the mount-to-frame fasteners using an 15mm socket.
• If equipped with a mount-to-bracket pattern, remove bracket fasteners using an 15mm socket or 18mm socket.

Step 5: Create clearance and extract the left mount

• Use the floor jack or engine support bar to raise the engine slightly for clearance.
• Use a pry bar to gently shift the engine as needed. Pry on sturdy metal only.
• Work the mount out through the available opening.

Step 6: Install the new left engine mount (hand-start first)

• Position the new mount in place.
• Hand-start mount-to-frame bolts using a ratchet and correct socket.
• Hand-start the through-bolt/nut using an 18mm socket.
• Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker (blue) if the fasteners are not pre-coated.

Step 7: Repeat for the right engine mount

• Repeat Steps 4-6 on the right side using the same support method.
• You may need a swivel socket adapter and extensions to reach some bolts.

Step 8: Align the powertrain and tighten all fasteners

• Lower/raise the engine slightly with the floor jack to align bolt holes until bolts slide in without forcing.
• Tighten all mount fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.
• Double-check that wiring, hoses, and heat shields are not pinched or touching the mount brackets.

Step 9: Reinstall covers and reconnect battery

• Reinstall splash shields and skid plate using a 13mm socket and any new fastener clips.
• Lower the Yukon off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket. Torque to OEM specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in Park; listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift Park → Reverse → Drive and feel for abnormal bangs. Keep the hood closed for safety.
• Test drive over a small bump and during light acceleration; vibration should be reduced.
• Recheck for loose hardware and any contact marks after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$1,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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