🔧 Escape - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Escape helps reduce vibration, clunking, and excess engine movement during acceleration or shifting. This job involves safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mounts, and installing new mounts without letting the engine or transmission shift out of position.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before any mount is removed. Never remove a mount with the engine unsupported.
• ⚠️ Use a block of wood between the jack and oil pan to spread the load. Do not jack directly on the bare oil pan.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, wiring, or engine support brackets.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time to keep the engine and transmission aligned.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3-inch extension
• 6-inch extension
• Torque wrench, 10-150 ft-lb range
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Hydraulic floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum
• Wood block, 2x6 inch minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Driver-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move it aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• A torque strut mount is a lower mount that limits engine rocking when you accelerate or shift gears.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a specific tightness so parts are not loose or over-tightened.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use a hydraulic floor jack at the front subframe lift point to raise the front of your Escape.
• Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack available because you will use it to support the engine.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a 7mm or 8mm socket if fitted to remove the lower splash shield screws.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic push clips.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep clips in a cup.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block on the saddle of the hydraulic floor jack.
• Position the jack and wood block under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until the wood block lightly contacts the oil pan.
• Do not lift the vehicle with the oil pan. You are only supporting the engine weight.

Step 4: Replace the Passenger-Side Engine Mount

• From the engine bay, use a 10mm socket to remove any intake duct or cover pieces blocking access to the passenger-side mount.
• Use a 15mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket nuts or bolts.
• Adjust the hydraulic floor jack slightly up or down until the bolts slide out without force.
• Remove the passenger-side engine mount from the engine bay.
• Install the new passenger-side engine mount in the same position.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket and tighten the passenger-side mount fasteners to Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
• If the replacement mount includes smaller bracket bolts, tighten those to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Driver-Side Transmission Mount

• Move the hydraulic floor jack and wood block under the transmission case, near the driver side.
• Raise the jack only enough to support the transmission. Do not lift the vehicle.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any battery tray or air intake pieces needed for access.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove battery tray fasteners if the tray blocks the mount.
• Use a 15mm socket to loosen the transmission mount-to-body bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket to loosen the transmission mount-to-transmission bracket bolts.
• Adjust the jack slightly until the bolts slide out easily.
• Remove the old transmission mount.
• Install the new transmission mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench and tighten the transmission mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench and tighten the transmission mount-to-bracket bolts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the battery tray or intake pieces with a 10mm socket and 13mm socket as removed.

Step 6: Replace the Rear Lower Torque Strut Mount

• Work from underneath your Escape with the vehicle safely on jack stands.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket to remove the bolt at the engine/transmission side of the torque strut mount.
• Use an 18mm or 21mm socket to remove the bolt at the subframe side of the torque strut mount.
• Remove the old lower torque strut mount.
• Install the new torque strut mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start both bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench and tighten the torque strut mount fasteners to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Do not pry on aluminum parts.

Step 7: Recheck Mount Alignment

• Use the hydraulic floor jack to gently lower the engine and transmission fully onto the new mounts.
• Use a flashlight to check that each mount sits flat and centered.
• Use the torque wrench to recheck all accessible mount fasteners.
• Make sure no wiring harnesses, hoses, or intake parts are trapped under a mount or bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the splash shield into position.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic push clips.
• Use an 8mm socket to reinstall the lower shield screws until snug.

Step 9: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the hydraulic floor jack to raise your Escape slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the battery terminal clamp snugly; do not overtighten.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• Watch the engine while a helper shifts from Park to Reverse and Drive with the brake pedal firmly held.
• The engine should move slightly, but it should not jump or clunk.
• Take a short test drive and listen for knocking, vibration, or clunking during acceleration and braking.
• After the test drive, recheck the mount area for loose fasteners or anything touching the engine.
• If the idle feels rough for a few minutes after battery disconnect, let your Escape idle and relearn normally.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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