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2016 Lexus NX200t
2015 - 2017 Lexus NX200t
Inline 4 2.0L
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  • Guides
  • /
  • Lexus NX200t
  • /
  • 2016
  • /
  • How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015-2017 Lexus NX200t (Right, Left & Rear Mounts) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
8mm
8mm
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or (5/16")
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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015-2017 Lexus NX200t (Right, Left & Rear Mounts) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and OEM torque spec reminders

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015-2017 Lexus NX200t (Right, Left & Rear Mounts) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and OEM torque spec reminders for 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 NX - Engine Mount Replacement

Your NX uses multiple mounts to hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. When a mount cracks or collapses, you’ll feel clunks on takeoff, extra vibration at idle, or banging during shifts.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: stock NX200t with standard 3-mount layout (right, left, rear).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; the engine can drop suddenly.
  • ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone; use jack stands under the pinch welds/subframe.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear between mount brackets and body while raising/lowering the engine.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool; you’ll be working near hot turbo/exhaust parts.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll remove the battery tray/ECU area components.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Wood block (2x6 in. minimum)
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
  • Metric wrench set (10mm-19mm)
  • 3/8 in. ratchet
  • 1/2 in. breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-200 N·m / 7-150 ft-lbs)
  • Extensions (3 in. and 6 in.)
  • Universal joint adapter
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Fender cover
  • Work light
  • Paint marker

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
  • Rear engine mount (torque mount) - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount fastener kit (if required) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket if you’ll work near the battery/ECU area.
  • Plan your engine support method:
    • If using an engine support bar (specialty): it holds the engine from above.
    • If using a floor jack: place a wood block between jack pad and oil pan to spread the load. (The wood prevents denting the oil pan.)
  • Remove the lower engine undercover/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine

  • Lift the front of your NX with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Position the floor jack under the engine oil pan area and place the wood block between the jack and pan.
  • Jack up gently until you see the engine weight “just” supported. Do not lift the vehicle off the stands.
  • Only take the weight—don’t raise the engine yet.

Step 2: Remove access components (as needed)

  • Remove the plastic engine cover by lifting it off (hands only).
  • If the right mount area is blocked, loosen/remove intake ducting using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
  • If the left mount area is blocked, remove the battery and/or tray as needed using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
  • Unclip harnesses/brackets near mounts using a trim clip removal tool and pliers so nothing is stretched.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

  • Locate the right mount near the passenger-side frame rail.
  • Mark the mount/bracket position with a paint marker for easier alignment.
  • Remove the mount-to-body nuts/bolts using a 14mm socket (sizes may vary slightly by hardware).
  • Remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts using a 14mm socket, extensions (3 in. and 6 in.), and a universal joint adapter as needed.
  • Slowly raise/lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack until the mount slides out without forcing it.
  • Install the new mount in the same orientation. Hand-start all fasteners to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten fasteners evenly and finish with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.
  • If holes don’t line up, adjust engine height slightly.

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

  • Locate the left mount at the driver-side frame rail/transmission side.
  • Support remains on the engine; you may need tiny height changes with the floor jack to unload the mount.
  • Remove mount-to-body bolts using a 14mm socket.
  • Remove mount-to-transmission bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and extensions (3 in. and 6 in.).
  • Remove the mount. Install the new mount and hand-start all bolts.
  • Snug all bolts, then torque with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.

Step 5: Replace the rear engine mount (torque mount)

  • The rear mount is typically accessed from underneath, near the rear of the engine/transmission assembly.
  • Remove any braces or small covers in the way using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket.
  • Remove the rear mount bolts using a 14mm socket and a breaker bar if tight.
  • Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack to relieve tension and slide the mount out.
  • Install the new rear mount, hand-start bolts, then torque using a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.

Step 6: Reassemble and final-tighten (loaded position)

  • Reinstall any removed intake parts, battery tray, battery, and brackets using your 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
  • Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
  • Lower the engine support slowly with the floor jack until the engine rests naturally on the mounts.
  • Re-check mount fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket: Torque to OEM spec.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks, knocking, or excessive vibration.
  • With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D briefly and feel for abnormal movement.
  • Take a short test drive. Recheck for new noises on acceleration and deceleration.
  • After the drive, inspect mounts visually for proper seating and check that no hoses/wires are rubbing.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


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