How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015-2017 Lexus NX200t (Right, Left & Rear Mounts) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and OEM torque spec reminders
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015-2017 Lexus NX200t (Right, Left & Rear Mounts) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and OEM torque spec reminders for 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 NX - Engine Mount Replacement
Your NX uses multiple mounts to hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. When a mount cracks or collapses, you’ll feel clunks on takeoff, extra vibration at idle, or banging during shifts.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: stock NX200t with standard 3-mount layout (right, left, rear).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; the engine can drop suddenly.
- ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone; use jack stands under the pinch welds/subframe.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear between mount brackets and body while raising/lowering the engine.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool; you’ll be working near hot turbo/exhaust parts.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll remove the battery tray/ECU area components.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wood block (2x6 in. minimum)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
- Metric wrench set (10mm-19mm)
- 3/8 in. ratchet
- 1/2 in. breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-200 N·m / 7-150 ft-lbs)
- Extensions (3 in. and 6 in.)
- Universal joint adapter
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pliers
- Fender cover
- Work light
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
- Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
- Rear engine mount (torque mount) - Qty: 1
- Engine mount fastener kit (if required) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket if you’ll work near the battery/ECU area.
- Plan your engine support method:
- If using an engine support bar (specialty): it holds the engine from above.
- If using a floor jack: place a wood block between jack pad and oil pan to spread the load. (The wood prevents denting the oil pan.)
- Remove the lower engine undercover/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Support the engine
- Lift the front of your NX with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Position the floor jack under the engine oil pan area and place the wood block between the jack and pan.
- Jack up gently until you see the engine weight “just” supported. Do not lift the vehicle off the stands.
- Only take the weight—don’t raise the engine yet.
Step 2: Remove access components (as needed)
- Remove the plastic engine cover by lifting it off (hands only).
- If the right mount area is blocked, loosen/remove intake ducting using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
- If the left mount area is blocked, remove the battery and/or tray as needed using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
- Unclip harnesses/brackets near mounts using a trim clip removal tool and pliers so nothing is stretched.
Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount
- Locate the right mount near the passenger-side frame rail.
- Mark the mount/bracket position with a paint marker for easier alignment.
- Remove the mount-to-body nuts/bolts using a 14mm socket (sizes may vary slightly by hardware).
- Remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts using a 14mm socket, extensions (3 in. and 6 in.), and a universal joint adapter as needed.
- Slowly raise/lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack until the mount slides out without forcing it.
- Install the new mount in the same orientation. Hand-start all fasteners to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten fasteners evenly and finish with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.
- If holes don’t line up, adjust engine height slightly.
Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount
- Locate the left mount at the driver-side frame rail/transmission side.
- Support remains on the engine; you may need tiny height changes with the floor jack to unload the mount.
- Remove mount-to-body bolts using a 14mm socket.
- Remove mount-to-transmission bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and extensions (3 in. and 6 in.).
- Remove the mount. Install the new mount and hand-start all bolts.
- Snug all bolts, then torque with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.
Step 5: Replace the rear engine mount (torque mount)
- The rear mount is typically accessed from underneath, near the rear of the engine/transmission assembly.
- Remove any braces or small covers in the way using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket.
- Remove the rear mount bolts using a 14mm socket and a breaker bar if tight.
- Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack to relieve tension and slide the mount out.
- Install the new rear mount, hand-start bolts, then torque using a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.
Step 6: Reassemble and final-tighten (loaded position)
- Reinstall any removed intake parts, battery tray, battery, and brackets using your 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
- Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
- Lower the engine support slowly with the floor jack until the engine rests naturally on the mounts.
- Re-check mount fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket: Torque to OEM spec.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks, knocking, or excessive vibration.
- With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D briefly and feel for abnormal movement.
- Take a short test drive. Recheck for new noises on acceleration and deceleration.
- After the drive, inspect mounts visually for proper seating and check that no hoses/wires are rubbing.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $200-$700 (parts only)
You Save: $500-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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