🔧 Highlander - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Highlander, there are multiple mounts that control engine movement (usually a right-side engine mount, a left-side transmission mount, and one or two “torque” mounts). The exact removal steps and the torque specs depend on which mount(s) you’re replacing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours (depends on mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• 🛑 Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts; the engine can drop/shift.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine with a jack.
• 🛑 Work on a cool engine; exhaust parts can burn you.
• 🛑 If you remove any splash shields near wiring, don’t pull on harnesses.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is recommended if working near the starter/primary cable: disconnect negative (-) terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (10mm-22mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Extension set (3", 6", 12")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Plastic or rubber mallet
• Wood block (2x4, 10-12" long)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to P, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items.
• If you’ll be working near the battery cable area, use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.
• Engine support: An engine support bar spans the fenders and holds the engine from above. This is the safest method for mount work.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount(s) you’re replacing

• With the hood open, look for a mount at the passenger-side (right) upper area near the engine cover area.
• Look for a mount at the driver-side (left) upper area on the transmission side.
• From underneath, look for “torque” mounts (also called a torque strut, meaning it limits engine twisting) near the subframe.
• Tip: A photo helps me guide you precisely.

Step 2: Quick check to identify the failed mount (optional)

• Have a helper sit in the driver seat with foot firmly on the brake.
• Watch the engine while they shift from P → R → D with light throttle “blips.”
• If the engine rocks excessively, a mount is likely torn/collapsed.
• Stop if you hear hard clunks; don’t keep repeating it.

Step 3: Reply so I can give the exact mount-specific steps and factory torque specs

• Tell me: Are you replacing (A) right engine mount, (B) left transmission mount, (C) front torque mount, (D) rear torque mount, or (E) all of them?
• Also tell me: Any symptoms? (vibration at idle, clunk on acceleration, bang on shifts)

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm idle vibration is improved.
• Shift through P/R/D with brake held and listen for clunks.
• Road test and re-check for any new noises.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$1,600 (parts + labor, depends on which mount)

DIY Cost: $80-$600 (parts only, depends on which mount)

You Save: $420-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.