🔧 Corolla - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transaxle in place and absorb vibration. When they wear or tear, you may feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration at idle, or see the engine “rock” when shifting into Drive/Reverse.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours

Assumption: This covers replacing all main mounts (right/left plus torque mounts). Torque values can vary by fastener; verify with OEM specs for your exact fastener set.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount. An unsupported engine can drop and damage hoses, wiring, exhaust, or the CVT.
• ⚠️ Never get under a car supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between jack and oil pan. This spreads the load and helps prevent denting the pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine; small movements can pinch fingers.
• 🔋 If you’ll be near the starter/large power cables, disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm socket.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x4)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Socket extension set (3" and 6")
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transaxle mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount (engine control rod / dogbone) - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount (if equipped) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit (nuts/bolts) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: an engine support bar (a crossbar that holds the engine from above) is safest; a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan is a common DIY method.
• Use a paint marker to mark mount/bracket positions before loosening bolts. This helps alignment during reinstall.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack to lift the front center jacking point.
• Set the car down on jack stands at the front pinch welds or subframe points.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if installed)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove clips/screws.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any 10mm bolts.

Step 3: Support the engine

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the strut towers and lightly tension it to carry engine weight.
• If using a jack method, place a wood block (2x4) on the floor jack pad and gently raise it to touch the oil pan, then raise only enough to support the engine (do not lift the car off the stands).
• Tip: “Just snug” support is usually enough.

Step 4: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• From the top, remove any components blocking access (typically the air intake duct/air box area) using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Use a 14mm socket and socket extensions to loosen the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a 17mm socket to loosen the mount-to-bracket/engine-side fasteners (as equipped).
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack (or adjust the engine support bar) until the bolts slide out without force.
• Remove the mount and install the new mount in the same orientation (use your paint marker marks).
• Start all bolts/nuts by hand first (prevents cross-threading), then snug with a 3/8" ratchet.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for typical mount nuts/bolts.

Step 5: Replace the left (driver-side) transaxle mount

• Support the transaxle/engine load firmly with the engine support bar or floor jack and wood block.
• Access the mount area and remove any brackets/lines in the way (do not kink hoses). Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket as needed.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the mount fasteners.
• Use a pry bar gently if the mount needs a small nudge to come free. (A pry bar is a strong lever used to move parts slightly.)
• Install the new mount, hand-start all fasteners, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for typical mount nuts/bolts.

Step 6: Replace the rear torque mount (dogbone) under the car

• Locate the rear torque mount at the lower rear of the engine/transaxle area (it looks like a short link with bushings).
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket (varies by fastener) and a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the bolts.
• If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine with the floor jack to relieve tension, then remove the bolt.
• Install the new torque mount and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs) for typical torque mount through-bolts.

Step 7: Replace the front torque mount (if equipped)

• Locate the front torque mount near the lower front of the engine/subframe area.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the fasteners.
• Install the new mount and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs) for typical torque mount through-bolts.

Step 8: Reinstall intake parts and splash shield

• Reinstall any removed intake/air box pieces using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.

Step 9: Lower the engine support and lower the car

• Slowly lower the floor jack (or release tension on the engine support bar) and watch that the engine settles normally without pulling on hoses.
• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, then lower the car fully.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and back (slowly). The engine should not “jump” hard.
• Test drive at low speed first. Recheck for new vibrations, rattles, or a popping sound over bumps.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners after the first short drive. If anything looks off-center, re-support the engine and realign before retorquing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$520 (parts only)

You Save: $490-$880 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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