🔧 Camry - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts are the rubber-and-metal supports that hold the engine/transaxle and absorb vibration. When they crack or collapse, you’ll feel extra shaking at idle, clunks on shifting, or thumps on acceleration/braking. You’ll support the engine safely, then replace mounts one at a time so nothing shifts.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Stock mount layout (right/left + front/rear torque mounts).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack—use jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• ⚠️ Hybrid safety: keep the car OFF, key/fob away, and do not touch any orange high-voltage cables.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before working near the engine wiring and mounts.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. Do not let the engine “hang” by hoses/wiring.
• ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan. Always use a wood block on the jack saddle to spread the load.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x4 or 2x6, 12-18 in long)
• Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
• Deep socket set (14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
• Ratchet (3/8 in drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2 in drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm / 7-150 ft-lbs)
• Extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
• Universal joint adapter (3/8 in drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transaxle mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount (front “dogbone”) - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount (rear “dogbone”) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit (nuts/bolts) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground. Set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and make sure the hybrid system is fully OFF (no “READY” light).
• Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket. Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time. This keeps alignment close and reduces stress on hoses.
• Engine support options: use an engine support bar (specialty) from above, or a floor jack + wood block from below (most DIY-friendly).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove lower covers and safely raise the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the correct front jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch weld/support points.
• Remove the engine under cover/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place a wood block (2x4 or 2x6, 12-18 in long) on the floor jack saddle.
• Jack up gently until the wood block just contacts the engine’s lower support area. You want support, not lifting the car.
• Tip: Watch hoses and wiring as you lift.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• This mount is typically near the passenger-side frame rail. Remove any small brackets/air ducting in the way using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position relative to the body bracket. This helps alignment on install.
• Loosen (do not fully remove yet) the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket.
• Loosen the mount-to-body/frame fasteners using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack until the bolts come out without binding.
• Remove the fasteners and lift the mount out. Use extensions (6 in, 12 in) and a universal joint adapter if access is tight.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation. Start all bolts/nuts by hand first.
• Tighten fasteners evenly. Torque to Toyota factory specification for the right mount fasteners using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm / 7-150 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transaxle mount

• This mount supports the transaxle side. Access is usually from above/side and sometimes from below.
• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Remove any obstructing brackets/wiring retainers using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool. (A retainer is a clip that holds wiring in place.)
• Loosen mount fasteners using a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, and breaker bar (1/2 in drive) if needed.
• Adjust engine height slightly to remove the mount without forcing it.
• Install the new mount and hand-start all hardware.
• Torque to Toyota factory specification for the left mount fasteners using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm / 7-150 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the front torque mount (“dogbone”)

• The torque mount limits engine rocking. It’s often accessed from underneath near the front subframe.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket (varies by fastener) with a ratchet (3/8 in drive) and extensions (6 in) to remove the bolts.
• Install the new torque mount, hand-start bolts, then snug.
• Torque to Toyota factory specification for the front torque mount fasteners using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm / 7-150 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the rear torque mount

• The rear torque mount is usually harder to reach. Use extensions (12 in) and a universal joint adapter.
• Remove the mount bolts using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket. Use a breaker bar (1/2 in drive) if the bolt is tight.
• Install the new mount, hand-start hardware, then tighten.
• Torque to Toyota factory specification for the rear torque mount fasteners using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm / 7-150 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Settle the mounts before final check

• Lower the engine support slightly with the floor jack so the engine’s weight sits naturally on the mounts.
• Re-check that all mount fasteners are tightened and torqued to Toyota factory specification with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm / 7-150 ft-lbs).
• Tip: If a bolt won’t start, adjust jack height.

Step 8: Reinstall covers and lower the car

• Reinstall the splash shield using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower fully.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Start the car and confirm it goes to “READY.” Listen for any clunks at idle.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive. Check for abnormal movement or banging.
• Test drive at low speed. Do a few gentle starts/stops and one moderate acceleration to confirm the clunk is gone.
• Recheck for any loose wiring clips or under-cover fasteners.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹45,000 (parts + labor, depending on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: ₹6,000-₹22,000 (parts only, depending on how many mounts)

You Save: ₹12,000-₹23,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,200-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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