🔧 CX-5 - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. When they tear or collapse, you’ll feel extra shaking at idle, clunks on takeoff, or thumps during shifting. On your CX-5, this job is very doable at home, but the engine must be safely supported while mounts are loosened.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Quick questions (2): Are you replacing all mounts or just one (right/passenger-side, left/driver-side, or rear)? Do you have an engine support bar (the safest way to hold the engine from above)?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• Support the engine before loosening any mount fasteners; the engine can drop and pinch/hurt you.
• Use a wood block between jack and oil pan if supporting from below (spreads the load).
• Keep hands clear of gaps while raising/lowering the engine slightly.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the battery tray/working near wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Metric combination wrench set (10mm-19mm)
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Socket extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit (recommended) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the engine cover (pull upward firmly by hand).
• Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket on the negative terminal and isolate the cable.
• If you’re using an engine support bar: set it across the strut towers and attach chains to the engine lift points. (A support bar “hangs” the engine safely from above.)
• If you’re supporting from below: position a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan and apply light upward pressure only. Just support, don’t lift hard.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the CX-5

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the factory jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at solid frame/support points.
• Give the vehicle a firm push test to confirm stability.

Step 2: Support the engine

• If using a support bar: install the engine support bar (specialty) and snug the tension so the engine is held.
• If using a jack: place the wood block on the jack saddle, then use the floor jack to contact the oil pan gently.
• Use a paint marker to mark mount/bracket positions to help align during reassembly.

Step 3: Remove intake/air box components for access (right mount area)

• Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the intake hose clamp(s).
• Use a 10mm socket to remove air box bolts (if equipped).
• Use a trim clip removal tool to release any push clips holding ducting.
• Lift the air box/ducting out for clearance.

Step 4: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• Use a 14mm socket and extensions (3", 6", 12") to loosen the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a 14mm socket to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Slightly raise or lower the engine using the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack until the mount is not in a bind, then remove the fasteners fully.
• Remove the mount and install the new mount in the same orientation.
• Hand-start all fasteners first to prevent cross-threading.
• Tighten fasteners evenly, then Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for mount-to-body fasteners.
• Torque to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs) for mount-to-bracket fasteners.

Step 5: Remove battery and tray for access (left mount area)

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down hardware and lift the battery out.
• Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the battery tray bolts and remove the tray.
• Move wiring harnesses aside gently; do not pull on wires.

Step 6: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Confirm the engine is still supported with the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack.
• Use a 14mm socket and universal joint adapter to remove the mount fasteners at the body side (as equipped).
• Use a 14mm socket and extensions (6", 12") to remove the mount-to-transmission bracket fasteners.
• Shift the mount out and install the new mount in the same direction.
• Hand-start all fasteners, then tighten.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) for mount-to-body fasteners.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for mount-to-bracket/transmission fasteners.

Step 7: Access the rear engine mount from underneath

• Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the lower splash shield/undercover fasteners (as equipped).
• Locate the rear mount (it sits behind the engine, connecting the drivetrain to the rear subframe area).

Step 8: Replace the rear engine mount

• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (varies by fastener) with a breaker bar to loosen the main mount bolts.
• Use the floor jack or engine support bar (specialty) to slightly change engine height until the bolts come out without forcing them.
• Remove the rear mount and install the new one in the same orientation.
• Install bolts finger-tight first, then snug them down.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) for rear mount bolts.

Step 9: Reassemble removed components

• Reinstall the lower splash shield using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reinstall the battery tray using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reinstall the battery and terminals using a 10mm socket (negative terminal last).
• Reinstall the air box/ducting using a 10mm socket and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.

Step 10: Set the engine down and final-check fasteners

• Slowly release tension on the engine support bar (specialty) or lower the floor jack slightly until the engine rests naturally on the mounts.
• Re-check that all mount fasteners are torqued and that nothing is pinched or rubbing.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for clunks and check for excessive movement.
• With the parking brake set, gently blip the throttle and watch for abnormal engine rocking.
• Test drive and check for vibration during takeoff and shifting.
• After the test drive, recheck the mount areas for any loose hardware or shifted components.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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