🔧 Optima - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. Replacing a worn mount can fix clunks on takeoff, vibration at idle, or excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours (depends on which mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never get under the car supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• 🛑 Support the engine before unbolting any mount; use a floor jack with a wood block to spread the load.
• 🛑 Do not lift the engine by the oil pan without a wood block; you can crack the pan.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when lowering/raising the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
• 🛑 If working near the radiator fans, keep the key away; fans can turn on unexpectedly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x4)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Metric socket set 10mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Socket extensions (3" and 6")
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) upper engine mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Rear lower torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Front lower torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1 (only if required for the mount you’re doing)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Optima on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Raise the front and support it securely on jack stands at the pinch welds or approved lift points.
• Position a floor jack with a wood block (2x4) under the engine (wood against the pan) and apply light upward pressure—just enough to “hold” the engine.
• To give you the correct OEM torque specs and the exact steps, answer these two quick questions:
  • Which mount(s) are you replacing: right upper, left trans, front lower, rear lower?
  • Is your 2.0L the 2.0T (turbo)?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify the failed mount

• Use a flashlight to look for torn rubber, leaking hydraulic fluid (on hydraulic mounts), or metal-to-metal contact.
• Use a pry bar gently to check for excessive movement. Pry lightly—don’t bend brackets.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Place the wood block (2x4) on the floor jack pad.
• Jack up until the wood just contacts the engine oil pan and slightly supports engine weight (do not lift high).

Step 3: Remove surrounding components (varies by mount)

• Use a flat trim tool and 10mm socket to remove any splash shields or air ducting that blocks access.
• Use a metric socket set 10mm-19mm and socket extensions (3" and 6") to access mount fasteners as needed.

Step 4: Remove the mount fasteners

• Use a breaker bar and appropriate metric socket to loosen the mount-to-body bolts and mount-to-bracket nuts/bolts.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack to remove bolt tension if a bolt feels “bound up.”

Step 5: Swap the mount

• Remove the mount and compare it to the new one (same shape, bolt holes, and orientation).
• Install the new mount by hand-starting all fasteners first to avoid cross-threading.

Step 6: Tighten in the correct order

• Use a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range) to torque fasteners.
• Torque to OEM spec for your exact mount and engine variant (I’ll provide the exact numbers once you answer the two questions above).

Step 7: Reinstall removed parts and lower the engine

• Use the metric socket set 10mm-19mm to reinstall brackets, ducting, and shields.
• Slowly lower the floor jack and remove it from under the engine.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; confirm vibration is improved and no warning lights appear.
• With the brake firmly held, shift through P-R-N-D and listen for clunks.
• Test drive at low speed and do a few gentle takeoffs; recheck for any new noises.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive for anything obviously loose.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts + labor, depends on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: $60-$450 (parts only, depends on which mounts)

You Save: $290-$650+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.