🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts support your 6.4L and isolate vibration. When a mount tears or collapses, you’ll feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration at idle, and sometimes exhaust or driveline contact.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Quick check before I tailor the steps: Are you replacing both engine mounts (left + right), or just one? And do you want the transmission mount included too?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount bolts; the engine can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Work on a level surface; use jack stands, not just a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points between engine, subframe, and mounts.
• ⚠️ Exhaust and catalytic converters can be extremely hot; let the vehicle cool fully.
• ⚠️ If you must raise the engine, lift slowly and watch hoses/wiring for stretching.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not always required, but disconnect the negative terminal if your tools will work near the starter/positive cable area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Floor jack rubber pad
• Wood block (2x6 in)
• Socket set (10mm-21mm)
• Deep socket set (13mm-21mm)
• Ratchet (3/8 in drive)
• Ratchet (1/2 in drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2 in drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs)
• Wobble extension set (3/8 in)
• Extension set (3/8 in and 1/2 in)
• Universal joint socket adapter (3/8 in)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Torx bit set (T20-T40)
• Pry bar (12 in)
• Paint marker
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit (recommended) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🔧 Plan to replace mounts one side at a time so the engine stays controlled.
• 🧰 If using an engine support bar, set it across the fender rails and attach to the engine lift point. (An engine support bar holds the engine from above.)
• 🪵 If you must support from below, place a wood block on the jack pad under a strong area of the oil pan casting and lift only enough to take weight off the mount (do not crush the pan).
• 🔋 Optional: Disconnect negative battery cable if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure your Grand Cherokee

• Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point and lift the front.
• Place jack stands under the factory support points and lower onto stands.
• Confirm stability by gently rocking the vehicle before crawling underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shields (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to release plastic clips.
• Use a socket set (10mm-13mm) for any bolts.
• Set all hardware aside and label it with a paint marker. Bag bolts by location.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Preferred: Install the engine support bar (specialty) and lightly tension it until it just begins to carry engine weight.
• Alternative: Position a floor jack with a wood block (2x6 in) under the engine and lift slightly until the mount is not loaded.
• Lift only a little at a time and watch for stretching hoses/wires.

Step 4: Identify the mount you’re replacing (left or right)

• Left mount = driver side; right mount = passenger side (U.S. left-hand drive).
• Use a work light to locate the mount between the engine bracket and the subframe.

Step 5: Remove any components blocking access (varies by side)

• Use a socket set (10mm-18mm), extensions, and a universal joint socket adapter as needed for tight access.
• If a heat shield is present, remove with a Torx bit set (T20-T40) or 10mm socket (varies by shield fastener).
• Take a photo before disassembly.

Step 6: Loosen (do not fully remove) the mount-to-subframe nut/bolt

• Use a breaker bar (1/2 in drive) with the correct deep socket (15mm-21mm) to crack it loose.
• Leave it threaded a few turns so the engine can’t shift unexpectedly.

Step 7: Remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts

• Use a ratchet with wobble extensions and the correct socket (15mm-18mm) to remove the upper fasteners.
• If the bolts are tight, switch to a breaker bar carefully to avoid rounding.

Step 8: Remove the mount-to-subframe fastener and extract the mount

• Remove the lower fastener using the ratchet and correct deep socket (15mm-21mm).
• Use a pry bar (12 in) gently to wiggle the mount free if it’s stuck.
• If it won’t come out, slightly raise/lower the engine using the engine support bar or floor jack to relieve bind.

Step 9: Install the new mount (start all fasteners by hand)

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start the mount-to-engine bracket bolts by hand first, using your ratchet only after they thread smoothly.
• Start the mount-to-subframe fastener by hand next.

Step 10: Align the mount and tighten fasteners in the correct order

• Lower/raise engine slightly (using the engine support bar or floor jack) until bolts spin freely and sit flush.
• Tighten mount-to-engine bracket fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification for your Grand Cherokee SRT.
• Tighten mount-to-subframe fastener using a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification for your Grand Cherokee SRT.
• Never “guess tight” on mounts.

Step 11: Repeat for the other side (if replacing both)

• Reposition your work light and repeat Steps 4-10 on the opposite mount.
• Keep the engine supported the entire time.

Step 12: Reinstall shields and underbody panels

• Reinstall heat shields using the Torx bit set (T20-T40) or 10mm socket (matching what you removed).
• Reinstall splash shields using the socket set (10mm-13mm) and trim clip removal tool.

Step 13: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, then lower to the ground.
• If you disconnected it, reconnect the battery using the 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Start the engine and let it idle; check for excessive vibration or new noises.
• 🧪 With the hood open, have a helper shift from Park to Reverse/Drive with foot on brake; watch for excessive engine movement.
• 🚗 Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks on accel/decel.
• 🔧 Recheck visible fasteners after the test drive (do not retorque hot exhaust-side hardware).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.