🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Grand Cherokee uses rubber/hydraulic engine mounts to isolate vibration and keep the engine properly positioned. When a mount tears or collapses, you’ll feel extra vibration, clunks on shifts, or see the engine “lift” when you rev it in gear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts—do not let the engine hang.
• ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ If using a floor jack to support the engine, use a wood block to spread the load; do not crush the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near it.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll remove the battery tray or work near main power wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-21mm
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Swivel adapter (universal joint)
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any plastic engine cover (pull upward by hand).
• If you plan to remove the battery/battery tray: disconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket and isolate it.
• Decide how you’ll support the engine:
  • Engine support bar = safest (it holds the engine from above).
  • Floor jack + wood block = works, but lift gently and only enough to take weight off the mount.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and access the lower area

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle securely on jack stands and confirm stability.
• Remove the lower splash shield/belly pan using a trim clip remover, flathead screwdriver, and metric sockets as needed.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Preferred: Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and hook the chain to a solid lift point on the engine. Tension it until the engine just starts to unload the mounts.
• Alternative: Position a floor jack with a wood block under the engine’s lower support area and raise it slightly to take the engine weight. Lift only a little at a time.

Step 3: Remove components for access (varies by side)

• For the right (passenger) side, remove the intake duct/air box if it blocks access using a flathead screwdriver and metric sockets.
• For the left (driver) side, remove any brackets or shields blocking the mount using a ratchet, extensions, and metric sockets.

Step 4: Replace the right engine mount

• Locate the right mount between the engine bracket and the chassis/subframe.
• Use a breaker bar and metric sockets to loosen (do not fully remove yet) the mount-to-engine bracket bolts and the mount-to-chassis bolts/nuts.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly using the engine support bar or floor jack to remove tension from the mount. Small height changes make a big difference.
• Remove the fasteners fully with a ratchet, extensions, and swivel adapter as needed, then remove the mount.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation. Start all bolts/nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Snug fasteners with a ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench to Torque to OEM specification (per the service manual for your fastener set).

Step 5: Replace the left engine mount

• Locate the left mount between the engine bracket and the chassis/subframe.
• Use a breaker bar and metric sockets to loosen the mount fasteners.
• Adjust engine height slightly using the engine support bar or floor jack until the bolts come out without binding.
• Remove the mount fasteners with a ratchet, extensions, and swivel adapter, then remove the mount.
• Install the new mount, hand-start all fasteners, and align the mount studs/holes as needed using a pry bar carefully.
• Final-tighten with a torque wrench to Torque to OEM specification (per the service manual for your fastener set).

Step 6: Reassemble and lower the engine

• Reinstall any removed brackets, shields, and the air intake parts using metric sockets and metric wrenches.
• Slowly release the engine support bar tension or lower the floor jack so the engine sits naturally on the new mounts.
• Reinstall the belly pan/splash shield using a trim clip remover and metric sockets.
• Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; confirm the engine sits level and doesn’t rock excessively.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and listen for clunks (normal idle vibration should be reduced).
• Road test and re-check for any new vibration, rattles, or intake air leaks.
• Recheck visible fasteners for tightness after a short drive (once cooled), using a torque wrench to Torque to OEM specification.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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