🔧 Malibu - Engine Mount Replacement (Planning + Safe Setup)

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and reduce vibration. Replacing them is very doable, but the exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount(s) you’re replacing (right/passenger, left/driver/transmission side, or rear torque mount).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours (varies by mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen mounts without supporting the engine first.
• ⚠️ Support the engine by the oil pan only with a wood block to spread the load (prevents pan damage).
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine (it can shift suddenly).
• ⚠️ Work on level ground with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is usually not required, but disconnect if you’ll remove any wiring brackets near the starter/alternator area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Metric socket set 10-21mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" and 1/2" drive extension set
• Metric wrench set 10-21mm
• Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar (12-18")
• Wood block (2x6 about 12" long)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (Right/passenger side) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Transmission mount (Left/driver side) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Rear torque strut mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• New mount-to-body and mount-to-bracket bolts - Qty: 1 set (recommended if listed as one-time-use)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Plan your support method:
  • Best: Use an engine support bar (it holds the engine from above).
  • Alternate: Use a floor jack + wood block under the oil pan. Raise only enough to “take the weight.”
• If you’ll work near major power cables, disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which mount(s) you’re replacing

• With the hood open, look for the right/passenger mount near the passenger-side upper engine area.
• The left/driver mount is typically on the transmission side.
• The rear torque mount is lower and resists engine “rocking.”
• Use a flashlight and visually check for cracked rubber, separated rubber, or leaking fluid (some mounts are hydraulic).

Step 2: Safely lift and support the front of the car (if needed for access)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) on the correct front jack point and lift the vehicle.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the car a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Support the engine BEFORE loosening any mount bolts

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the fenders per the tool instructions and take light tension on the engine lift point.
• If using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), place a wood block (2x6) on the jack pad and position it under the oil pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until you see the engine lift just slightly. Only take the weight—don’t lift high.

Step 4: Create a “bolt map” and mark alignment

• Before removal, take pictures of the mount and brackets using your phone.
• Lay bolts out on a piece of cardboard in the pattern they came out.
• This prevents mixing bolt locations (lengths can differ).

Step 5: Reply with the mount location so I can give exact removal steps + torque specs

• Tell me which mount(s): Right/passenger, Left/driver (transmission), and/or Rear torque mount.
• Also tell me which support method you’ll use: engine support bar or floor jack + wood block.
• Once I have that, I’ll give you the exact bolt sequence, access steps (airbox/brackets/shields), and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for your Malibu.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in P; listen for clunks or rattles.
• Hold the brake and shift R then D; engine movement should be reduced.
• Road-test for vibration at idle and during acceleration.
• Re-check mount fasteners for tightness after a short drive (only if the service procedure allows re-torque).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,000 (parts + labor, depends on which mount)

DIY Cost: $60-$300 (parts only, depends on which mount)

You Save: $290-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.