How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2014-2023 Subaru Forester (Left & Right) (Engine: Flat 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY engine mount replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2014-2023 Subaru Forester (Left & Right) (Engine: Flat 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY engine mount replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Forester - Engine Mount Replacement
Worn engine mounts let the engine move too much, which can cause clunks, vibration, and harsh shifting/“thump” on throttle changes. On your Forester, you’ll support the engine safely, remove the left and right engine mounts, and install new mounts in the same positions.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: Replacing both left and right engine mounts (not the transmission mount).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a floor jack.
- 🛑 Support the engine before removing mount hardware; an unsupported engine can drop and damage hoses/wiring.
- 🛑 Let the exhaust/turbo area cool fully; burns happen fast near the turbocharger.
- 🛑 Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine with the jack.
- 🛑 Battery: Disconnecting the negative cable is recommended to reduce accidental short risk while working near the starter/engine harness.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wood block (2x6 or similar, 12-18 in long)
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 3/8 in ratchet
- 1/2 in breaker bar
- Socket extension set (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
- Universal swivel joint
- Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lb range)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pry bar (12-18 in)
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Left engine mount - Qty: 1
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount self-locking nuts - Qty: 4
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
- 🔋 Open the hood and disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
- 🛠️ Raise the front and support it on jack stands at the proper front support points.
- 💡 Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak while you set up.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the lower engine undercover
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic clips.
- Use a 12mm socket to remove any bolts holding the undercover, then set it aside.
Step 2: Remove the top-mount intercooler (for access)
- Intercooler = aluminum “radiator” on top of engine.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the charge-pipe hose clamps.
- Use hose clamp pliers to release any spring clamps on small hoses.
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the intercooler mounting bolts.
- Lift the intercooler up and out carefully (don’t tear the rubber couplers).
Step 3: Support the engine safely
- Wood block spreads load to protect the oil pan.
- Place the wood block on the floor jack saddle.
- Position it under the engine oil pan area and raise the jack until it just contacts and slightly supports the engine (do not lift the car).
- Use a paint marker to mark mount orientation/alignment points you can see.
Step 4: Loosen mount-to-subframe nuts (both sides)
- From underneath, locate the two engine mount studs/nuts (one per side) going down into the front subframe.
- Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen/remove the nuts.
- If needed, use a work light and a socket extension set for better reach.
- When reinstalling: Torque to 50 N·m (37 ft-lb).
Step 5: Remove the right engine mount
- From above and below, locate the right mount where it bolts to the engine bracket and sits on the subframe.
- Use a 14mm socket, socket extension set, and universal swivel joint to remove the mount-to-bracket bolts.
- Slowly raise the engine a small amount using the floor jack so the mount can slide out. Go in tiny moves and watch hoses/wiring.
- Use a pry bar gently only if the mount is stuck in place.
- When reinstalling mount-to-bracket bolts: Torque to 70 N·m (52 ft-lb).
Step 6: Remove the left engine mount
- Repeat the same process on the left side.
- Use a 14mm socket with the socket extension set and universal swivel joint to remove mount-to-bracket bolts.
- Adjust engine height with the floor jack to create enough clearance to remove the mount.
- When reinstalling mount-to-bracket bolts: Torque to 70 N·m (52 ft-lb).
Step 7: Install the new mounts and align the engine
- Set each new mount into position exactly like the old one (match your paint marker reference).
- Start mount-to-bracket bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then snug using a 14mm socket.
- Lower/raise the engine slightly using the floor jack until the mount studs drop cleanly through the subframe holes.
- Install new self-locking nuts on the studs by hand, then snug with a 17mm socket.
Step 8: Final torque of mount fasteners
- With the engine sitting naturally on the mounts (jack just touching, not lifting), torque the mount-to-bracket bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 70 N·m (52 ft-lb).
- Torque the mount-to-subframe nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 50 N·m (37 ft-lb).
- Lower the floor jack fully and remove it from under the engine.
Step 9: Reinstall the intercooler and undercover
- Reinstall the intercooler and start the bolts by hand, then tighten using a 12mm socket.
- Tighten the hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall the lower undercover using the trim clip removal tool and 12mm socket.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- 🔍 Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for excessive engine movement, new noises, or warning lights.
- 🔍 Listen for boost/air leaks (hissing) around the intercooler hoses; re-tighten clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver if needed.
- 🚗 Test drive gently first. Check for clunks on takeoff and on/off throttle transitions.
- 🧰 Recheck visible fasteners after the first drive; confirm nothing shifted.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $800-$1,500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $200-$600 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Mount replace for these Subaru vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2022 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2021 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2020 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2019 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2018 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.0L | - |
| 2018 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2017 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.0L | - |
| 2017 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.0L | - |
| 2016 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Subaru Forester | - | Flat 4 2.5L | - |


















