🔧 Engine Mounts - Replacement

Engine mounts support the engine and absorb vibration. On your Rogue, the mounts are tight in the engine bay, so the job usually takes some patience and careful lifting of the engine to unload each mount before removal.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the engine before removing any mount. Do not let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.
• Use a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan only to gently hold and raise the engine. Do not lift aggressively.
• Keep hands clear while raising or lowering the engine. A shifted engine can pinch fingers.
• If the vehicle has an AWD powertrain, clear access under the vehicle is tighter. Use jack stands on solid, level ground.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting if you need extra clearance around starter or harness areas.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Metric socket set
• Metric wrench set
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Trim clip tool
• Ratchet extension set
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount set - Qty: 1
• Mount-to-engine bolts - Qty: 1 set
• Mount-to-body bolts - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and remove any engine covers blocking access.
• If a mount is buried near the splash shield, raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
• Use a jack and wood block to lightly support the engine before removing any mount.
• Take a quick photo of each mount before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the mounts

• Remove the upper engine cover by hand if equipped.
• If needed, use the appropriate metric socket and ratchet extension set to remove the air intake duct or splash shield sections that block access.
• Keep all fasteners organized by location.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place a floor jack under the oil pan with a wood block on top to spread the load.
• Raise the jack until it just contacts the pan and takes the engine weight.
• If you have an engine support bar, use it instead of the floor jack for better control.
• Only remove slack, not lift high.

Step 3: Remove the mount fasteners

• Use the correct metric socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount bolts.
• Remove the body-side bolts first, then the engine-side bolts if access allows.
• If the mount is under tension, slightly raise or lower the engine with the jack until the bolts slide out easily.

Step 4: Remove the old mount

• Lift the mount out of the bracket area by hand.
• If it is stuck, use a small pry movement only after confirming all bolts are out.
• Compare the old mount to the new one before installing.

Step 5: Install the new mount

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the jack or support bar to move the engine slightly until bolt holes line up.
• Tighten the bolts snug, but do not fully torque until all fasteners are seated.

Step 6: Torque the mount fasteners

• Use a torque wrench to tighten all mount bolts to the factory specification for the specific mount position.
• Torque to manufacturer specification for each mount location because values vary by mount and bolt size.
• Recheck that the mount is sitting flat and the engine is centered in the bay.

Step 7: Reassemble removed parts

• Reinstall any intake ducting, splash shields, and engine covers using the metric socket set.
• Lower the vehicle if it was raised and remove all tools from the engine bay.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable if disconnected.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in Park.
• Check for excess vibration, clunks, or engine movement.
• Shift from Park to Drive and Reverse with your foot on the brake to confirm smooth engagement.
• Inspect the mounts visually for correct seating and any contact with nearby parts.
• If vibration is still severe, another mount may be worn or a bracket may be damaged.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.