🔧 Highlander - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Highlander means safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mount, and installing the new mount without stressing the engine, transmission, exhaust, or wiring. The 2.7L Highlander uses multiple powertrain mounts, so this guide covers the common engine-side mount and torque rod style mounts used to control engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a floor jack and wood block before removing any mount fasteners.
• ⚠️ Do not place the jack directly on the aluminum oil pan without a wide wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Remove and replace one mount at a time. Removing multiple mounts can let the engine shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount brackets and body while raising or lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the engine bay.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 6-inch socket extension 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch socket extension 1/2-inch drive
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Flat-blade screwdriver medium
• Plastic trim clip remover
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Penetrating oil spray
• Paint marker
• Work light
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine side mount assembly - Qty: 1
• Front engine torque mount - Qty: 1 if worn
• Rear engine torque mount - Qty: 1 if worn
• Engine mount bolts and nuts - Qty: Replace any damaged or corroded fasteners
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: 3-6 recommended

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on level ground.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely before working near the exhaust or radiator.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• A torque mount, also called a dogbone mount, limits engine rocking when you accelerate or shift.
• Use a paint marker to mark mount bracket positions before removal. This helps keep alignment close during reassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Highlander.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine.
• Shake the vehicle lightly to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the splash shield bolts.
• Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove the plastic push clips.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver medium only if a clip center needs gentle lifting.
• Set the splash shield aside.

Step 3: Inspect and Mark the Mounts

• Use a work light to inspect the engine side mount, front torque mount, and rear torque mount.
• Look for cracked rubber, separated rubber, leaking fluid from hydraulic mounts, or shiny metal contact marks.
• Use a paint marker to mark the bracket position before loosening bolts.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch minimum on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under a strong, flat area of the engine near the oil pan edge.
• Raise the jack only until it lightly supports the engine. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Support means gentle contact, not heavy lifting.

Step 5: Remove the Front Torque Mount

• Spray the mount bolts with penetrating oil spray if they are rusty.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and 17mm wrench if needed to loosen the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the bracket bolts, depending on bolt head size.
• Remove the front torque mount from the vehicle.

Step 6: Install the Front Torque Mount

• Position the new front engine torque mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to snug the bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to snug the through-bolt.
• Do not final-tighten until the engine is resting at normal height.

Step 7: Access the Engine Side Mount

• Open the hood and use a work light to locate the engine side mount near the passenger-side inner fender area.
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to move any small brackets or covers blocking access.
• Do not disconnect A/C lines or coolant hoses unless absolutely necessary.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount bracket position.

Step 8: Remove the Engine Side Mount Fasteners

• Confirm the engine is still supported by the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch minimum.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the engine side mount nuts and bolts.
• Use a 6-inch socket extension 1/2-inch drive where access is tight.
• Remove the fasteners while keeping one hand clear of the bracket gaps.

Step 9: Remove the Engine Side Mount

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the engine slightly until the mount is free.
• Move the engine only a small amount at a time.
• Remove the old engine side mount assembly from the engine bay.
• If it binds, use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to adjust engine height. Do not pry hard against aluminum parts.

Step 10: Install the Engine Side Mount

• Place the new engine side mount assembly into position.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to gently align the engine bracket with the mount holes.
• Start every bolt and nut by hand before tightening any one fastener.
• Use a 17mm socket and 19mm socket to snug the fasteners evenly.
• Torque engine side mount-to-body fasteners to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs)
• Torque engine side mount through-bolt/nut to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Replace the Rear Torque Mount if Needed

• Use a work light from underneath to locate the rear torque mount near the rear/lower side of the engine and subframe.
• Spray the bolts with penetrating oil spray if needed.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and matching 17mm wrench or 19mm wrench to remove the through-bolt and bracket bolts.
• Install the new rear engine torque mount in the same orientation.
• Start all fasteners by hand first.
• Do not final-tighten until the engine is at normal resting height.

Step 12: Settle the Engine Before Final Torque

• Slowly lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the engine sits naturally on the mounts.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct socket for larger mount bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive with the correct socket for smaller bracket bolts.
• Torque torque mount through-bolts to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs)
• Torque torque mount bracket bolts to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs)
• Final torque with engine weight on mounts.

Step 13: Reinstall Moved Brackets and Lower Shield

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to reinstall any brackets or covers removed for access.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield bolts.
• Use your hands to push in new underbody splash shield clips where clips were damaged.
• Torque 10mm splash shield bolts to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Highlander slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 15: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
• Make sure the cable is tight enough that it cannot rotate by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle while listening for clunks, rattles, or vibration.
• ✅ With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. Engine movement should be smooth and controlled.
• ✅ Recheck that no hoses, wiring, or brackets are stretched or touching moving parts.
• ✅ Take a short, gentle test drive and listen during acceleration and braking.
• ✅ Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive.
• ✅ If idle relearn is needed after battery disconnect, let the engine idle with accessories off until warm, then drive normally for several miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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