🔧 Sierra 1500 - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Sierra 1500 uses two engine mounts (left and right) to hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. Replacing worn mounts stops clunks on acceleration/braking, reduces vibration, and prevents drivetrain misalignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support the truck with jack stands on the frame—never rely on a jack.
• 🔥 Let the exhaust cool fully; the mounts sit near hot components.
• 🧱 When lifting the engine, use a wood block on the jack pad to spread the load and avoid oil pan damage.
• 🧤 Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not usually required for mounts, but disconnect the negative cable if you’ll be working near the starter/primary cables on the right side.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Socket set with ratchet (3/8" and 1/2" drive)
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Wrench set (15mm, 18mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Long extensions (6" and 12")
• Universal joint swivel adapter
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 📏 Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands so the suspension can hang slightly (this helps clearance).
• 🛡️ Remove any front skid plate(s) if equipped using the appropriate socket (commonly 15mm socket).
• 🧱 Position a floor jack with a wood block under the engine oil pan area. You are only “taking the weight,” not lifting the truck. Lift slowly and watch for shifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm mount locations and create access

• From underneath, locate the left mount (driver side) and right mount (passenger side).
• Remove any splash shields blocking access using a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver.
• Set your work light so you can clearly see the mount-to-frame bolts and the center fastener.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with the wood block under the engine to support it.
• Raise the jack just until you see the engine “settle” slightly (weight supported). Do not crush the oil pan.

Step 3: Remove the left (driver-side) engine mount fasteners

• Loosen the mount’s main fastener (often a through-bolt/nut—this is the long bolt that passes through the rubber mount) using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the mount-to-frame fasteners using an 18mm socket, ratchet, extensions, and a universal joint swivel adapter as needed.
• If the mount/bracket is tight, lift the engine slightly with the floor jack to relieve tension and then continue removing fasteners.

Step 4: Remove the left engine mount

• Work the mount out through the best opening (usually downward and toward the rear) while adjusting engine height with the floor jack.
• If clearance is tight, remove nearby shield/bracket hardware using a 15mm socket only as needed.

Step 5: Install the new left engine mount (leave bolts loose first)

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start the mount-to-frame bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading, then snug with an 18mm socket.
• Start the main through-bolt/nut by hand, then snug with an 18mm socket and wrench set (18mm).

Step 6: Torque the left engine mount fasteners

• Torque mount-to-frame fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Torque the main mount through-bolt/nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Repeat removal and installation on the right (passenger-side) mount

• Support the engine the same way with the floor jack and wood block.
• Remove the right mount main fastener using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove right mount-to-frame fasteners using an 18mm socket, extensions, and universal joint swivel adapter.
• Swap in the new right mount, start all fasteners by hand, then snug using an 18mm socket.
• Torque right mount-to-frame fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Torque the right main through-bolt/nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall shields/skid plates and lower the truck

• Reinstall any splash shields/skid plates using a 15mm socket (or the socket size you removed) and ratchet.
• Lower the engine support jack slowly using the floor jack.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Start the engine and watch the engine movement in Park/Reverse/Drive with the brake held (normal is slight movement; clunking is not).
• 🛣️ Test drive and check for clunks on light acceleration/braking and over bumps.
• 🧰 Recheck all mount fasteners after the test drive with a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $440-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.