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2014 Hyundai Tucson
2014 - 2015 Hyundai Tucson
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to replace engine mount (Hyundai Tucson)

How to replace engine mount (Hyundai Tucson)

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
19mm
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or (23/32")
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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2014-2015 Hyundai Tucson (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2014-2015 Hyundai Tucson (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine and transmission steady while absorbing vibration. On your Tucson, mount replacement usually involves supporting the powertrain from below, replacing one mount at a time, and tightening the fasteners with the engine sitting naturally in place.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never remove more than one engine or transmission mount at a time.
  • ⚠️ The engine must be supported before any mount bolts are loosened.
  • ⚠️ Use a wood block between the floor jack and oil pan to spread the load and avoid cracking the pan.
  • ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan; only apply light support pressure.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount brackets and body while raising or lowering the engine.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or main engine harness.
  • ⚠️ Always support your Tucson with jack stands before working underneath it.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
  • 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension
  • Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Wood block 2x6-inch
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flat-head screwdriver medium
  • Pry bar 18-inch
  • Paint marker
  • Magnetic parts tray
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Right engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
  • Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
  • Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount fasteners - Qty: As needed
  • Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: 4-8 recommended

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🚗 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • 🚗 Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
  • 🚗 Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
  • 🚗 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • 🚗 Use a paint marker to mark each old mount’s position before removal. This helps you line up the new mount.
  • 🚗 A roll stopper mount is a lower mount that limits engine rocking during acceleration and shifting.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the splash shield bolts.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-head screwdriver medium to remove plastic clips.
  • Set the shield aside and place fasteners in a magnetic parts tray.

Step 3: Support the Engine and Transmission

  • Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Position the jack under a flat, strong area of the engine oil pan.
  • Raise the jack only until the wood block touches the pan and lightly supports the engine.
  • Do not raise the vehicle off the jack stands.
  • Support weight, don’t lift hard.

Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount

  • The right engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay near the upper timing cover area.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the mount position before loosening it.
  • If access is tight, use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to move small brackets or covers blocking the mount.
  • Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
  • Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
  • Adjust the engine height slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the bolts slide out without binding.
  • Remove the old mount by hand.
  • Install the new right engine mount in the same position.
  • Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and 17mm socket to tighten the right mount body bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and 17mm socket to tighten the right mount engine bracket bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

  • The left transmission mount is on the driver side, attached between the transmission and body.
  • Move the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch so it lightly supports the transmission case.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the mount position.
  • Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the transmission mount fasteners.
  • Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar with a 17mm socket if bolts are tight.
  • Raise or lower the jack slightly until the bolts remove smoothly.
  • Remove the old mount by hand.
  • Install the new left transmission mount and start all fasteners by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and 17mm socket to tighten the transmission mount fasteners to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Front Roll Stopper Mount

  • The front roll stopper mount is accessed from underneath at the lower front of the engine/transmission assembly.
  • Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the roll stopper fasteners.
  • Use a pry bar 18-inch only to gently align the mount holes if needed.
  • Remove the old front roll stopper mount.
  • Install the new front roll stopper mount and start all bolts by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range, 14mm socket, and 17mm socket to tighten the front roll stopper fasteners to Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Rear Roll Stopper Mount

  • The rear roll stopper mount is accessed from underneath near the rear side of the engine/transmission assembly.
  • Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the rear roll stopper fasteners.
  • Use a pry bar 18-inch gently if the bolt holes need slight alignment.
  • Remove the old rear roll stopper mount.
  • Install the new rear roll stopper mount and hand-start all fasteners.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range, 14mm socket, and 17mm socket to tighten the rear roll stopper fasteners to Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Settle the Powertrain Before Final Check

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lower the engine/transmission support slightly so the mounts carry the weight naturally.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and the correct socket size to recheck all mount fasteners.
  • Confirm wiring, hoses, and brackets are not stretched or trapped near any mount.
  • Everything should sit relaxed.

Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

  • Lift the splash shield into place by hand.
  • Install replacement underbody splash shield clips by hand where old clips broke.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall splash shield bolts.
  • Tighten the splash shield bolts snugly; do not overtighten plastic panels.

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Tucson slowly to the ground.
  • Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 11: Reconnect the Battery

  • Place the negative battery cable back on the battery terminal.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Make sure the cable does not twist by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and let it idle with the hood open.
  • ✅ Watch the engine while shifting from Park to Reverse and Drive with your foot firmly on the brake.
  • ✅ A small amount of movement is normal. Heavy clunking or jumping means a mount or bracket needs rechecking.
  • ✅ Test drive at low speed first, then check for vibration, thumps, or exhaust contact noises.
  • ✅ Recheck visible mount fasteners after the first drive once the vehicle is safely parked and cooled.
  • ✅ Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost after the battery was disconnected.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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Guide for Automatic Transmission Mount replace for these Hyundai vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2015 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.0L-
2015 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.4L-
2014 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.0L-
2014 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.4L-
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