🔧 Camry - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Camry uses multiple mounts to hold the engine/transaxle in place and control vibration. Replacing mounts is very doable at home, but the exact steps and torque specs depend on which mount(s) you’re replacing (right/left/front/rear) and what support method you’ll use.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under a car supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening a mount; the engine can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and bracket while aligning.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before working near the rear mount area.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll work near the starter/positive cable area: remove the negative battery terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set 10mm-19mm
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2" drive
• Torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs
• Ratchet extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Swivel adapter 3/8" drive
• Pry bar (medium)
• Trim clip remover
• Flat screwdriver
• Wood block 2x6 (about 12" long)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) trans mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware (nuts/bolts) if required - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front and support it on jack stands at the proper lift points.
• If using a floor jack to support the engine: place a wood block on the jack pad before contacting the oil pan. (The wood spreads the load to reduce damage risk.)
• Please answer these 2 questions so I can give you the exact step-by-step and correct torque specs:
  • Which mount(s) are you replacing: right, left, front, rear, or all?
  • Do you have an engine support bar, or are you supporting the engine with a floor jack + wood block?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Locate the mounts you’re replacing

• Open the hood and look at the right (passenger-side) mount near the coolant reservoir area; it sits between the engine and the body.
• From underneath, identify the front and rear torque mounts (they look like “dogbone” links that limit engine rocking).
• The left mount supports the transaxle side and is typically accessed from above/side with some components moved.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• If using an engine support bar (specialty): install it across the strut towers and take up slack on the support hook/chain until the engine weight is just supported.
• If using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum): place a wood block 2x6 on the jack pad and lightly support the engine from underneath. Lift only enough to hold weight.

Step 3: Remove only ONE mount at a time

• Use a breaker bar 1/2" drive and appropriate socket set 10mm-19mm to crack fasteners loose.
• Then use a ratchet with extensions and a swivel adapter 3/8" drive as needed to remove the bolts/nuts.
• Use a pry bar (medium) only gently if the mount is stuck in its locating pins.

Step 4: Align the engine and install the new mount

• Position the new mount in place by hand.
• Thread all bolts/nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the floor jack (or engine support bar) to slightly raise/lower the engine until the bolt holes line up easily. If it doesn’t line up, don’t force it.

Step 5: Torque fasteners (mount-specific)

• Use a torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs to torque all mount fasteners.
• Torque values and bolt locations differ by mount on your Camry V6, so I’ll provide the exact torque spec list once you tell me which mount(s) you’re doing (right/left/front/rear/all).

Step 6: Reassemble anything removed for access

• Reinstall any splash shields, air ducting, or brackets removed using the trim clip remover, flat screwdriver, and appropriate sockets.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; watch for excessive movement while shifting from Park to Reverse to Drive (foot firmly on brake).
• Test drive and listen for clunks on takeoff or over bumps.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners for tightness after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.