🔧 Forester - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Forester, “engine mounts” can mean the left and right side mounts (the ones that hold the engine to the front subframe), and some people also include the small “pitch stop” mount at the top that limits engine rocking. The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mounts you’re replacing and which transmission version you have.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount hardware; an unsupported engine can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and subframe while lifting/adjusting the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust/catalytic converter cool fully before working nearby.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not usually required, but remove the key and keep the vehicle off.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set 10mm-19mm
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Long extension set 3"-10"
• Pry bar 18"
• Trim clip tool
• Wood block 2x6
• Penetrating oil
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Pitch stop mount (upper) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Engine mount nuts/bolts (new hardware) - Qty: 1 set (recommended)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front and support with jack stands under the approved front support points.
• Plan to support the engine with a floor jack and a wood block 2x6 under the oil pan. The wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the pan.
• Spray penetrating oil on mount fasteners 10 minutes before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Answer these two quick questions (so I give the exact OEM torque specs)

• Is your Forester the 4-speed automatic (4EAT) or a CVT?
• Which mounts are you replacing: left & right side mounts only, or left & right + pitch stop?

Step 2: Locate the mounts you’re targeting

• Use a work light to find the left and right engine mounts down low where the engine meets the front subframe.
• Use the socket set 10mm-19mm to remove any lower splash shield panels that block access (fasteners vary by panel).
• Tip: Take photos before removing hardware.

Step 3: Set up safe engine support (do not lift yet)

• Place the wood block 2x6 on the cup of the floor jack.
• Position the jack under the engine oil pan area and snug it up until it just contacts the wood.
• Do not raise the engine yet—this is only to prevent movement when bolts come loose.

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✅ After Repair

• Once I have your two answers, I’ll give you the exact bolt-by-bolt procedure with Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values for each fastener.
• After replacement, you’ll recheck for vibrations at idle and confirm there’s no clunk on shifting from Park to Drive/Reverse.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.