🔧 Altima - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Altima involves safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mounts, and installing new mounts in the correct positions. Bad mounts can cause vibration at idle, clunks when shifting from Park to Drive, and excess engine movement during acceleration.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid ground. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not place the jack directly on the aluminum oil pan without a wide wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool before working near the exhaust, radiator fans, or engine brackets.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended because you will work around the starter-side wiring and engine bay brackets.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wood block 12-inch x 12-inch minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque rod mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque rod mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are blocks that stop the car from rolling.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable away from the battery post.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount before removal. This helps line up the new mount.
• Work on one mount at a time. Do not remove all mounts at once.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use the floor jack at the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Altima.
• Place jack stands under the front pinch welds or front subframe support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine later.
• Shake the car gently to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• A splash shield is the plastic panel under the engine that protects it from water and road debris.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block on the floor jack pad.
• Position the jack and wood block under the flat reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack just until the wood block touches the oil pan and lightly supports the engine.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Support means hold weight, not lift hard.

Step 4: Replace the Right Upper Engine Mount

• The right upper engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay near the coolant reservoir area.
• Use a 10mm socket to move any small brackets or wire retainers attached to the mount area.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position on the body bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Raise or lower the floor jack slightly until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Remove the old mount by hand.
• Set the new right upper engine mount in the same position.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket to snug the bolts.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket bolts to Torque to 83 Nm (61 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• The left transmission mount is on the driver side, near the transmission case and battery tray area.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down bracket.
• Lift the battery straight up and set it aside safely.
• Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the battery tray fasteners.
• Remove the battery tray to access the transmission mount.
• Move the floor jack and wood block slightly so it supports the transmission case, not the oil pan.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount fasteners.
• Use a 17mm socket with a 6-inch extension to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-transmission bracket bolts.
• Raise or lower the floor jack slightly until the mount comes out easily.
• Install the new left transmission mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand first.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the mount-to-transmission bracket bolts to Torque to 83 Nm (61 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to reinstall the battery tray.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery hold-down bracket.

Step 6: Replace the Front Torque Rod Mount

• The front torque rod mount is accessed from underneath near the front lower engine area.
• A torque rod mount limits engine rocking when you accelerate or shift gears.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the through-bolt from the front torque rod mount.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the bracket-side bolt.
• If the bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar for extra leverage.
• Remove the old front torque rod mount.
• Install the new front torque rod mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start both bolts by hand first.
• Use the floor jack to slightly shift engine position if the bolt holes do not line up.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the torque rod mount bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Rear Torque Rod Mount

• The rear torque rod mount is behind the engine near the rear lower subframe area.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 12-inch extension, and universal joint socket adapter to reach the rear mount bolts.
• A universal joint socket adapter lets the socket bend slightly for hard-to-reach bolts.
• Use a breaker bar to loosen the rear torque rod mount bolts.
• Remove the through-bolt first with a 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
• Remove the bracket-side bolt with a 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
• Remove the old rear torque rod mount.
• Install the new rear torque rod mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand first.
• Use the pry bar carefully to align the mount holes if needed. Do not pry on rubber boots, hoses, or wiring.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the rear torque rod mount bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Recheck Mount Alignment

• Use the floor jack to remove support pressure slowly from the engine and transmission.
• Watch each mount while lowering the jack. The mounts should sit flat without twisting.
• Use a torque wrench to recheck all accessible mount fasteners.
• Confirm all wiring brackets, hose retainers, and battery tray parts are reinstalled.

Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the lower splash shield into place by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the splash shield bolts.
• Snug the 10mm bolts only; do not overtighten plastic shield fasteners.

Step 10: Reconnect the Battery and Lower the Vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Altima slowly to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, then back to Park.
• ✅ Listen for clunks and feel for abnormal vibration.
• ✅ Check that the engine does not jump excessively when shifting into Drive.
• ✅ Test drive gently for 5-10 minutes, then recheck for loose fasteners or unusual noises.
• ✅ If the idle feels rough only after battery disconnect, allow a short relearn by idling with accessories off for several minutes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $530-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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