How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee (6.4L)
Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee (6.4L)
Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs


🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement
On your Grand Cherokee, the engine mounts support the 6.4L and keep vibration under control while you accelerate, brake, and shift. Replacing worn mounts usually fixes clunks/thumps on takeoff, excess vibration in gear, and drivetrain “lash” noises.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; it can drop suddenly.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle held by a jack only.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; the mount areas are near hot components.
- ⚠️ If you lift the engine, lift slowly and watch hoses/wiring for stretching.
- 🔋 Recommended: disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce accidental short risk.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wood block (2x6 in or similar)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Metric socket set (10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm)
- Metric wrench set (13mm, 15mm, 18mm)
- 3/8 in ratchet
- 1/2 in breaker bar
- Socket extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
- Universal joint adapter
- Trim clip remover
- Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
- Flat pry bar
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1
- Left engine mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover by pulling straight up (it’s held by rubber grommets).
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Plan how you’ll support the engine: an engine support bar (specialty) from above is safest; a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan can work if you lift gently. (An engine support bar holds the engine from the top using hooks and a crossbar.)
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure your Grand Cherokee
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front lift point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front support points.
- Give the vehicle a firm shake check before you go underneath.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shields/skid panels
- Use a trim clip remover for plastic push pins (a push pin is a plastic fastener that pops out in two stages).
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8 in ratchet to remove any bolts holding the underbody panels.
- Set hardware aside in labeled piles (left/right) using a simple “egg carton” organizer.
Step 3: Support the engine
- If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the fender rails and take the engine’s weight slightly (do not lift yet).
- If using a jack: place a wood block (2x6 in or similar) on the floor jack pad and gently contact the oil pan, then lift just enough to “take the load.”
- Stop if you see the radiator fan shroud, hoses, or wiring start to tension.
Step 4: Loosen the mount through-bolt(s)
- Spray fasteners with penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the mount and brackets (helps alignment during install).
- Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2 in breaker bar to loosen the engine mount through-bolt nut/bolt.
- Do not fully remove the through-bolt until the engine is clearly supported.
Step 5: Remove the right engine mount
- Use socket extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in) and a universal joint adapter to access the right-side mount fasteners.
- Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket (varies by fastener position) to remove the mount-to-frame bolts.
- Use a 21mm socket to slide out the through-bolt.
- Use a flat pry bar to gently persuade the mount free if it’s stuck.
Step 6: Remove the left engine mount
- Repeat the same approach on the left side using the 15mm socket, 18mm socket, and 21mm socket as needed.
- If bolt holes don’t line up, raise/lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack to relieve bind.
- Small height changes make big alignment differences.
Step 7: Install the new mounts (leave bolts slightly loose first)
- Position the new mounts exactly like the originals (use your paint marker reference).
- Start all mount-to-frame bolts by hand using a 15mm socket / 18mm socket so you don’t cross-thread.
- Slide the through-bolt back in using a 21mm socket to guide/hold it straight.
Step 8: Tighten fasteners to specification
- With the engine sitting naturally (no lifting force), tighten hardware using a torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range).
- Engine mount through-bolt: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)
- Engine mount-to-cradle/frame bolts: Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
- Engine mount bracket-to-engine bolts (if removed): Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)
Step 9: Reinstall shields/skid panels and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall panels using a 13mm socket and 3/8 in ratchet.
- Reinstall push pins using a trim clip remover to align them, then press to lock.
- Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 10: Reconnect battery and reinstall engine cover
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Press the engine cover back onto its grommets until it seats.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle in Park for 1–2 minutes. Listen for new knocks or rattles.
- With your foot on the brake, shift Park → Reverse → Drive and feel for excessive engine movement.
- Take a short test drive. Recheck for clunks on acceleration and when coming to a stop.
- After the test drive, do a quick visual check underneath for any disturbed shields or loose hardware.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $680-$1,150 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















