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2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee
SRT8 - V8 6.4L
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2014-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee leaking engine mount, what I did to replace it.

2014-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee leaking engine mount, what I did to replace it.

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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee (6.4L)

Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee (6.4L)

Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee, the engine mounts support the 6.4L and keep vibration under control while you accelerate, brake, and shift. Replacing worn mounts usually fixes clunks/thumps on takeoff, excess vibration in gear, and drivetrain “lash” noises.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; it can drop suddenly.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle held by a jack only.
  • ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; the mount areas are near hot components.
  • ⚠️ If you lift the engine, lift slowly and watch hoses/wiring for stretching.
  • 🔋 Recommended: disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce accidental short risk.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Wood block (2x6 in or similar)
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Metric socket set (10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm)
  • Metric wrench set (13mm, 15mm, 18mm)
  • 3/8 in ratchet
  • 1/2 in breaker bar
  • Socket extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
  • Universal joint adapter
  • Trim clip remover
  • Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
  • Flat pry bar
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Right engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Left engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover by pulling straight up (it’s held by rubber grommets).
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Plan how you’ll support the engine: an engine support bar (specialty) from above is safest; a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan can work if you lift gently. (An engine support bar holds the engine from the top using hooks and a crossbar.)

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure your Grand Cherokee

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front lift point.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front support points.
  • Give the vehicle a firm shake check before you go underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shields/skid panels

  • Use a trim clip remover for plastic push pins (a push pin is a plastic fastener that pops out in two stages).
  • Use a 13mm socket and 3/8 in ratchet to remove any bolts holding the underbody panels.
  • Set hardware aside in labeled piles (left/right) using a simple “egg carton” organizer.

Step 3: Support the engine

  • If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the fender rails and take the engine’s weight slightly (do not lift yet).
  • If using a jack: place a wood block (2x6 in or similar) on the floor jack pad and gently contact the oil pan, then lift just enough to “take the load.”
  • Stop if you see the radiator fan shroud, hoses, or wiring start to tension.

Step 4: Loosen the mount through-bolt(s)

  • Spray fasteners with penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the mount and brackets (helps alignment during install).
  • Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2 in breaker bar to loosen the engine mount through-bolt nut/bolt.
  • Do not fully remove the through-bolt until the engine is clearly supported.

Step 5: Remove the right engine mount

  • Use socket extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in) and a universal joint adapter to access the right-side mount fasteners.
  • Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket (varies by fastener position) to remove the mount-to-frame bolts.
  • Use a 21mm socket to slide out the through-bolt.
  • Use a flat pry bar to gently persuade the mount free if it’s stuck.

Step 6: Remove the left engine mount

  • Repeat the same approach on the left side using the 15mm socket, 18mm socket, and 21mm socket as needed.
  • If bolt holes don’t line up, raise/lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack to relieve bind.
  • Small height changes make big alignment differences.

Step 7: Install the new mounts (leave bolts slightly loose first)

  • Position the new mounts exactly like the originals (use your paint marker reference).
  • Start all mount-to-frame bolts by hand using a 15mm socket / 18mm socket so you don’t cross-thread.
  • Slide the through-bolt back in using a 21mm socket to guide/hold it straight.

Step 8: Tighten fasteners to specification

  • With the engine sitting naturally (no lifting force), tighten hardware using a torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range).
  • Engine mount through-bolt: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)
  • Engine mount-to-cradle/frame bolts: Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
  • Engine mount bracket-to-engine bolts (if removed): Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall shields/skid panels and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall panels using a 13mm socket and 3/8 in ratchet.
  • Reinstall push pins using a trim clip remover to align them, then press to lock.
  • Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 10: Reconnect battery and reinstall engine cover

  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Press the engine cover back onto its grommets until it seats.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle in Park for 1–2 minutes. Listen for new knocks or rattles.
  • With your foot on the brake, shift Park → Reverse → Drive and feel for excessive engine movement.
  • Take a short test drive. Recheck for clunks on acceleration and when coming to a stop.
  • After the test drive, do a quick visual check underneath for any disturbed shields or loose hardware.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $680-$1,150 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


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