🔧 Escape - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine in position and reduce vibration inside the cabin. On your Escape, the main DIY-serviceable mounts are the passenger-side upper engine mount and the lower torque mount; replace one mount at a time so the engine stays controlled.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing mount bolts. The engine can shift when a mount is removed.
• ⚠️ Never work under your Escape with only a floor jack holding it up. Use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan so the jack does not dent or crack the pan.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers away from the gap between the mount, bracket, and body.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near wiring and metal brackets.
• ⚠️ Do not remove multiple mounts at the same time unless the engine and transmission are fully supported.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 7mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 1/4-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 3-inch extension
• 6-inch extension
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Lower engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: as needed if stretched, rusted, or damaged
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: as needed if broken

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on flat, solid ground.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to the correct measured tightness.
• A breaker bar is a long handle used to safely loosen very tight bolts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open the Engine Bay

• Use mechanic gloves and safety glasses.
• Use a work light to see the passenger-side upper mount area clearly.
• If equipped, lift the plastic engine cover straight up by hand.

Step 2: Move the Air Intake Tube Aside

• Use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to loosen the air intake hose clamp.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently release any plastic retaining tabs.
• Move the intake tube aside by hand to improve access.
• Take a photo first.

Step 3: Raise the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the front of your Escape.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Leave the floor jack free so it can support the engine next.

Step 4: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a 7mm socket or 8mm socket with a 1/4-inch ratchet to remove the splash shield screws.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips. A trim clip tool lifts plastic clips without breaking them.
• Lower the shield by hand and set it aside.

Step 5: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6 on the pad of the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until the wood just contacts the oil pan.
• Lift only enough to support the engine. Do not raise the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Small jack movements only.

Step 6: Mark the Upper Mount Location

• Use a paint marker to outline the passenger-side upper engine mount position on the body bracket.
• This gives you a simple guide when placing the new mount.

Step 7: Remove the Passenger-Side Upper Mount Fasteners

• Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 6-inch extension to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and breaker bar to loosen the body-side mount fasteners if tight.
• Remove the fasteners by hand after they are loose.
• If a bolt binds, use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise or lower the engine slightly until the bolt slides out easily.

Step 8: Remove the Passenger-Side Upper Mount

• Lift the old mount out by hand.
• If it feels stuck, use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to make a very small height adjustment.
• Do not force it with a pry bar against aluminum brackets.

Step 9: Install the New Passenger-Side Upper Mount

• Set the new passenger-side upper engine mount into place by hand.
• Start every nut and bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to slightly adjust engine height until all holes line up naturally.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 1/2-inch ratchet to snug the fasteners evenly.
• Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs for final tightening.
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Torque mount-to-body fasteners to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Remove the Lower Torque Mount

• Move under the front of your Escape with safety glasses on.
• Locate the lower torque mount between the engine/transmission assembly and the subframe.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch ratchet to loosen the torque mount bolts.
• Use a breaker bar if the bolts are tight.
• Remove the bolts by hand and pull the lower mount out.

Step 11: Install the New Lower Torque Mount

• Place the new lower engine torque mount into position by hand.
• Start all bolts by hand first.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to make tiny engine position changes if the bolt holes do not line up.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs for final tightening.
• Torque lower torque mount bolts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Lift the splash shield into place by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to help align plastic clips.
• Use a 7mm socket or 8mm socket with a 1/4-inch ratchet to reinstall the screws.
• Tighten the small screws snug only.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Escape slowly to the ground.

Step 14: Reconnect the Intake and Battery

• Reinstall the air intake tube by hand.
• Use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to tighten the intake clamp.
• Push the engine cover back into place by hand if equipped.
• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Torque battery terminal nut to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Escape and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• ✅ Listen for clunks, rattles, or new vibration.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive.
• ✅ A little engine movement is normal. A hard jump or loud clunk means something is loose or misaligned.
• ✅ Take a short, gentle test drive.
• ✅ Recheck the mount area for shifted parts, loose fasteners, or contact marks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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