🔧 Escape - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Escape means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn mounts, and installing new mounts so the engine sits correctly again. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunking, harsh shifting feel, or excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This covers the main upper passenger-side engine mount, lower torque strut mount, and transmission-side mount used on your AWD Escape.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, exhaust, or the remaining mounts.
• ⚠️ Use a floor jack with a wide wood block under the engine oil pan only for support, not for lifting the vehicle by the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the turbocharger, exhaust, or radiator area.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended because you will be working near major engine wiring and the battery tray area.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range
• Socket extension 6-inch
• Socket extension 12-inch
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Paint marker
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Driver-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal protectant - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. The negative cable is the black cable marked with a minus symbol.
• Use a floor jack and jack stands if you are replacing the lower torque strut mount.
• A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured force. This is important because mounts carry the weight and movement of the engine.
• Use a paint marker to mark the old mount positions before removal. This helps you line up the new mounts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels.
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal nut, then remove the negative cable from the battery.
• Use safety glasses and work gloves before working around the engine bay.
• Take photos before removing parts.

Step 2: Remove Upper Engine Bay Covers and Intake Pieces

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic push clips holding the upper air ducting.
• Use an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver to loosen the intake tube clamp if the air intake tube blocks mount access.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove air box or duct fasteners as needed.
• Lift the ducting out carefully and set it aside.
• Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block on the floor jack saddle.
• Slide the floor jack under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the floor jack slowly until the wood block just touches the oil pan.
• Do not lift the vehicle with the oil pan. The jack is only supporting engine weight.
• Watch hoses and wiring while gently raising or lowering the engine.

Step 4: Replace the Passenger-Side Engine Mount

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the passenger-side mount before removal.
• Use a 15mm socket and ratchet to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use the floor jack to adjust the engine height slightly until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Remove the passenger-side engine mount from the engine bay.
• Set the new passenger-side engine mount in the same position as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first. This prevents cross-threading, which means damaging the bolt threads.
• Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to snug the bolts evenly.
• Torque passenger-side mount-to-body bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs).
• Torque passenger-side mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Do not force misaligned bolts.

Step 5: Raise the Front for Lower Mount Access

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the approved front jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before going underneath.

Step 6: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the lower splash shield screws.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic clips from the splash shield.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.

Step 7: Replace the Lower Torque Strut Mount

• The lower torque strut mount is the dog-bone shaped mount that controls engine rocking during acceleration.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the old lower mount.
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the large lower mount bolts.
• Use a 21mm socket if your replacement fasteners use the larger bolt head size.
• Remove the bolts while keeping one hand on the mount.
• Pull the lower torque strut mount out of the subframe area.
• Install the new lower torque strut mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start both bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use the floor jack under the engine with the wood block to slightly move the engine if the bolt holes do not line up.
• Torque lower torque strut mount bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Small engine movement helps alignment.

Step 8: Access the Driver-Side Transmission Mount

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down clamp.
• Lift the battery straight up and out. Batteries are heavy, so use both hands.
• Use a 10mm socket and 13mm socket to remove the battery tray fasteners.
• Remove the battery tray to expose the driver-side transmission mount area.
• Use the floor jack and wood block to support the transmission side of the powertrain carefully.

Step 9: Replace the Driver-Side Transmission Mount

• Use a paint marker to mark the old transmission mount position.
• Use a 15mm socket to remove the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use an 18mm socket to remove the mount-to-transmission bracket fasteners.
• Adjust the floor jack slightly until the bolts slide out smoothly.
• Remove the old transmission mount.
• Place the new transmission mount into position.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to snug the fasteners evenly.
• Torque transmission mount-to-body bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs).
• Torque transmission mount-to-bracket bolts to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Hand-start every bolt first.

Step 10: Reinstall Battery Tray and Intake Parts

• Use a 10mm socket and 13mm socket to reinstall the battery tray fasteners.
• Torque battery tray fasteners to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Place the battery back into the tray.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery hold-down clamp.
• Torque battery hold-down clamp bolt to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Use an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver to tighten the intake tube clamp.
• Use a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool to reinstall ducting and clips.

Step 11: Reinstall Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the lower splash shield into place by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the splash shield screws.
• Torque splash shield screws snug only, about 3-5 Nm (27-44 in-lbs).

Step 12: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect Battery

• Use the floor jack to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Torque battery terminal nut to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Apply battery terminal protectant after the cable is tight.

Step 13: Final Mount Check

• Use a flashlight to inspect all three mounts.
• Confirm every mount bolt is seated flat and fully tightened.
• Confirm no hoses, wiring, or intake parts are pinched.
• Remove all tools from the engine bay.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Escape and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
• Listen for clunks, rattles, or unusual vibration.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. The engine should move slightly but not jump.
• Take a short low-speed test drive and avoid hard acceleration at first.
• Recheck the mount bolts after the test drive if any noise remains.
• After battery disconnect, reset the clock, radio presets, and one-touch window function if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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