🔧 Santa Fe - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine rock too much, causing clunks, harsh vibration, and thumps when shifting from Park to Drive/Reverse. On your Santa Fe, you’ll replace the mounts one at a time while safely supporting the engine so nothing drops or binds.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing all main mounts (RH/LH + torque mounts) with stock-style mounts.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts; an unsupported engine can drop and damage hoses/wiring.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the engine and body/subframe while jacking.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely; the rear area can be very hot.
• ⚠️ Recommended: disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket to prevent accidental shorts near wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 in. or similar)
• Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Ratchet (3/8 in.)
• Breaker bar (1/2 in.)
• Extensions (3 in., 6 in.)
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Pry bar
• Trim clip remover tool
• Penetrating oil
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1
• Mounting hardware kit (if required) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and remove loose items from the engine bay.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper front lift points.
• Remove the lower splash shield/undertray clips using a trim clip remover tool (and bolts with 10mm/12mm sockets if equipped).
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine

• Position a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the engine oil pan area.
• Place a wood block (2x6 in. or similar) between the jack pad and the oil pan to spread the load (this prevents denting the pan).
• Jack up just until you see the engine “take weight”; do not lift the vehicle off the stands.
• If you have an engine support bar (specialty), you can use it from above instead of jacking under the pan.

Step 2: Remove the right-side engine mount (passenger side)

• Spray visible mount bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.
• Remove any nearby brackets/cover pieces as needed using a 10mm or 12mm socket and a ratchet (3/8 in.).
• Loosen (do not fully remove yet) the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners using a 14mm or 17mm socket with a ratchet and extensions.
• Loosen the mount-to-body fasteners using a 14mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket and a breaker bar.
• Slowly raise/lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack until the bolts come out smoothly (no binding).
• Remove the mount and transfer any heat shield/bracket pieces to the new mount if applicable using the same socket set.
• Install the new mount by hand-threading all fasteners first.
• Tighten fasteners and finish with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 3: Remove the left-side transmission mount (driver side)

• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Remove any components blocking access (small brackets/air ducting) using a 10mm or 12mm socket and a ratchet.
• Loosen and remove the mount fasteners using a 14mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket with a breaker bar as needed.
• Use the floor jack to slightly adjust engine height so the mount slides out without force.
• Install the new mount, hand-thread bolts/nuts, then tighten.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 4: Replace the front torque mount (front “roll stopper”)

• The “roll stopper” is a torque mount that limits engine rocking during acceleration/braking.
• From underneath, locate the front torque mount near the front subframe/radiator side.
• Remove its bolts using a 14mm or 17mm socket and a ratchet; use a breaker bar if tight.
• If the bolt holes don’t line up for the new mount, gently shift alignment with a pry bar while slightly raising/lowering the engine using the floor jack.
• Install bolts finger-tight first, then tighten.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 5: Replace the rear torque mount (rear “roll stopper”)

• Locate the rear torque mount toward the firewall side of the subframe (access is tighter).
• Use a ratchet (3/8 in.), extensions (3 in., 6 in.), and a 14mm/17mm socket to remove the fasteners.
• If needed, carefully reposition the engine a few millimeters using the floor jack so bolts slide out cleanly.
• Install the new rear mount, start all fasteners by hand, then tighten.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 6: Reassemble and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall any brackets/covers removed earlier using the 10mm/12mm sockets and a ratchet.
• Reinstall the undertray using the trim clip remover tool (clips) and 10mm/12mm sockets (bolts) as applicable.
• Lower the engine support jack slowly using the floor jack.
• Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground using the floor jack.
• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift through Park > Reverse > Drive (pause 2 seconds each). Abnormal banging usually means a mount bolt is loose or misaligned.
• Take a short test drive and check for vibration on acceleration.
• Recheck all accessible mount fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.