🔧 Escape - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Escape means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn mount assemblies, and installing new ones so the engine sits correctly again. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunks when shifting, or excessive engine movement when accelerating.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing any mount. If not supported, it can drop and damage hoses, wiring, or your hands.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the turbocharger, exhaust, or coolant hoses.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the battery tray and upper engine mount area.
• ⚠️ Replace mounts one at a time so the engine stays aligned.
• ⚠️ Do not place a jack directly on the oil pan without a wood block to spread the load.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range
• Flat trim clip remover
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
• Floor jack 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Shop light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Support the engine with a floor jack and wood block before removing any mount bolts. The wood block spreads the pressure so the oil pan is not dented.
• Work on one mount at a time: right upper engine mount, lower torque strut mount, then transmission mount.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support your Escape safely

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack 2-ton minimum at the front jacking point and raise the front of your Escape.
• Place jack stands 2-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield

• Use an 8mm socket to remove the lower splash shield screws.
• Use a flat trim clip remover to release any plastic clips.
• Remove the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep clips in a cup.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch minimum on the pad of the floor jack 2-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until the wood block lightly contacts the oil pan.
• Do not lift the vehicle by the oil pan. You are only supporting engine weight.

Step 4: Disconnect the battery and move upper access parts

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery cable clamp.
• Move the cable away from the battery post so it cannot touch accidentally.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove the air intake duct fasteners as needed for access.
• Use a flat blade screwdriver to loosen intake hose clamps if the duct blocks access to the right upper engine mount.

Step 5: Replace the right upper engine mount

• The right upper engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay near the coolant reservoir area.
• Use a 15mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Remove the bolts fully while keeping the engine supported with the floor jack 2-ton minimum.
• Lift the old mount out of the engine bay.
• Set the new right upper engine mount in place.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Cross-threading means the bolt is going in crooked and can damage the threads.
• Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to snug the bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range to tighten the mount bolts to the manufacturer specification supplied with the replacement mount hardware. If using factory-style bolts, typical torque is approximately Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) for larger mount fasteners.
• Thread bolts by hand first.

Step 6: Replace the lower torque strut mount

• The lower torque strut mount is underneath the engine. It limits front-to-back engine movement during acceleration.
• Use a shop light to locate the dogbone-shaped lower mount between the powertrain and subframe.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the torque strut mount bolts.
• If a bolt is tight, use a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive for controlled force.
• Remove the old lower torque strut mount.
• Install the new mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start both bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range to tighten the torque strut mount bolts to approximately Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs), or to the spec included with the new fastener kit.

Step 7: Replace the transmission mount

• Keep the engine and transmission supported with the floor jack 2-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch minimum.
• The transmission mount is on the driver side of the powertrain area.
• Use a 10mm socket to move any brackets or covers blocking the mount.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, or 21mm socket to remove the transmission mount bolts, depending on bolt location.
• Remove the old transmission mount.
• Install the new transmission mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range to tighten the larger transmission mount fasteners to approximately Torque to 80-103 Nm (59-76 ft-lbs), or to the spec included with the replacement hardware.
• Do not force alignment.

Step 8: Align the engine before final tightening

• Use the floor jack 2-ton minimum to slightly raise or lower the engine until the mounts sit naturally without twisting.
• Check that hoses, wiring, and intake parts are not stretched or pinched.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range to recheck all mount bolts after alignment.

Step 9: Reinstall removed parts

• Use a flat blade screwdriver to reinstall and tighten any intake hose clamps.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall air intake duct fasteners.
• Use an 8mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield screws.
• Use a flat trim clip remover or your fingers to reinstall plastic splash shield clips.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery and lower the vehicle

• Reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the negative battery cable clamp snugly.
• Use the floor jack 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Escape slowly to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch for abnormal shaking.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. A small movement is normal; a hard clunk is not.
• Listen for rattles near the mount areas.
• Take a short test drive at low speed first.
• After the test drive, recheck visible mount bolts for movement or looseness.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock, radio presets, and one-touch window function if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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