🔧 Tacoma - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the 2.7L engine in place and absorb vibration so the cab stays smooth and quiet. Replacing worn mounts on your Tacoma involves safely supporting the engine, removing the mount brackets, swapping the mounts, and tightening everything back in the correct position.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine with a floor jack and wood block before removing any engine mount fasteners.
• ⚠️ Never place your hands between the engine, mount, frame bracket, or crossmember while the engine is supported.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns from the exhaust manifold, radiator, and coolant hoses.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine more than necessary. Too much lift can damage hoses, wiring, exhaust parts, or fan shroud clearance.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended because you’ll be working near the starter-side area and engine wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 12mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• 10-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive
• Universal joint 3/8-inch drive
• Trim clip remover
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bracket bolts - Qty: As needed
• Engine mount through-bolts and nuts - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable away from the battery post.
• Spray the engine mount nuts and bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount and bracket before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support Your Tacoma

• Use a floor jack under the front crossmember to lift the front of your Tacoma.
• Place jack stands under the frame rails.
• Lower your Tacoma gently onto the jack stands.
• Leave the floor jack free so you can use it to support the engine.
• Never work under jack-only support.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Skid Plate or Splash Shield

• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the front skid plate bolts if equipped.
• Use a trim clip remover for any plastic splash shield clips.
• Set the shield and hardware aside in order.

Step 3: Check Clearance Around the Engine

• Use a flashlight and inspect fan shroud clearance, radiator hoses, heater hoses, air intake ducting, exhaust, and wiring.
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen or remove any small bracket that would be pulled tight when the engine is lifted slightly.
• Do not disconnect fuel lines or refrigerant lines.
• Lift only as much as needed.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the floor jack saddle.
• Position the floor jack and wood block under the engine oil pan, near the stronger rear section of the pan.
• Raise the floor jack until the wood block just touches the oil pan.
• Add only light pressure. The jack should support the engine, not lift it yet.
• The wood block spreads the load so the jack does not dent the oil pan.

Step 5: Loosen the Engine Mount Through-Bolts

• The through-bolt is the long bolt that passes through the center of the mount and bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and breaker bar to loosen the left engine mount through-bolt and nut.
• Use a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and breaker bar to loosen the right engine mount through-bolt and nut.
• Do not fully remove both through-bolts until the engine is supported and steady.

Step 6: Remove One Engine Mount at a Time

• Work on one side first. Leave the opposite-side mount loosely installed to help keep the engine aligned.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the through-bolt from the first mount.
• Use a 14mm socket, extension, and ratchet to remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket and wrench to remove the mount-to-frame bracket fasteners, depending on access.
• If access is tight, use a universal joint 3/8-inch drive with a 14mm socket.

Step 7: Raise the Engine Slightly

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine slowly, about 1/2 inch at a time.
• Watch the fan shroud, hoses, wiring, exhaust, and transmission area as you lift.
• Stop as soon as the old mount has enough clearance to come out.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle positioning. Do not force the engine hard against brackets.

Step 8: Install the New Engine Mount

• Compare the new mount to the old mount before installation. The shape, studs, bolt holes, and height should match.
• Place the new mount into position by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket to start the mount-to-engine bracket bolts by hand first.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket and wrench to start the mount-to-frame bracket fasteners by hand first.
• Lower or raise the engine slightly with the floor jack until the through-bolt hole lines up.
• Install the through-bolt by hand before tightening any mount bolts fully.
• Hand-start every bolt first.

Step 9: Tighten the First Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten smaller mount bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench with a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to tighten the engine mount through-bolt to Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).
• If a mount-to-frame fastener uses a larger 17mm or 19mm head, tighten it to Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Replace the Opposite Engine Mount

• Repeat Steps 6 through 9 on the other side using the same tools.
• Use the floor jack to adjust engine height slightly until the bolt holes line up.
• Do not pry hard against the oil pan, steering rack, or aluminum engine parts.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten smaller bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench to tighten through-bolts to Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Lower the Engine Fully Onto the Mounts

• Use the floor jack handle to slowly lower the engine until its full weight rests on both mounts.
• Check that both mounts sit flat and are not twisted.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket to recheck all mount fasteners after the engine is settled.

Step 12: Reinstall the Skid Plate or Splash Shield

• Lift the skid plate or splash shield into position by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to start all skid plate bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench and 12mm socket to tighten skid plate bolts to Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
• Use a trim clip remover by hand to reinstall any plastic clips.

Step 13: Reconnect the Battery and Lower Your Tacoma

• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use the floor jack under the front crossmember to lift your Tacoma slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Tacoma slowly to the ground with the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle in Park.
• ✅ Watch the engine. It should move slightly, not jump or clunk.
• ✅ Shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, while holding the brake firmly.
• ✅ Listen for knocking or thumping from the engine bay.
• ✅ Take a short test drive and check for vibration at idle and during acceleration.
• ✅ Recheck the engine mount bolts after the first heat cycle if any fasteners were rusty or difficult to access.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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