🔧 Camry - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Camry has multiple “engine mounts” (rubber-and-metal supports) that control engine movement: a right-side engine mount, a left-side transaxle mount, and torque mounts (front/rear) that limit twisting. The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount(s) you’re replacing, so I need 2 quick details to give you the correct, trim-accurate procedure.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-5.0 hours (depends on which mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop and damage wiring/hoses.
• ⚠️ Never lift the engine by the oil pan with bare metal contact; use a wide wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Hybrid safety: do not touch orange high-voltage cables or connectors; keep tools away from them.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool before working near the exhaust side.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Flashlight
• Trim clip removal tool
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Extensions set (3", 6")
• Universal swivel joint
• Wrench set (10mm-19mm)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wood block (2x6 or similar, 12" long)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transaxle mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fasteners (if specified as one-time-use) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Two quick questions so I give the exact mount-by-mount steps and torque specs:
  • Which mount(s) are you replacing: right (passenger side), left (driver side), front torque, rear torque, or all?
  • Do you have an engine support bar (the bar that spans the fenders and holds the engine from above), or will you be supporting the engine from below with a floor jack + wood block?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify the failed mount(s)

• Use a flashlight to look for torn rubber, collapsed mount height, or shiny “metal-to-metal” contact marks.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with a wood block under a strong engine-side area and gently take the weight (do not lift high).
• If the engine visibly “clunks” or shifts when lightly supported, that area often points to the failed mount. Only lift enough to unload the mount.

Step 2: Pause here for the correct mount procedure

• Once you answer the 2 questions above, I’ll provide the exact removal order, access panels to remove, and the correct Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for your selected mount(s).
• This matters because mount bolts are different sizes/locations, and tightening order affects alignment.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and confirm there’s no abnormal vibration at idle in P and with the brake held in D.
• Road test at low speed and listen for clunks over bumps and during light acceleration.
• Recheck that all splash shields and clips are secure.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,300 (parts + labor, depends on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: $80-$500 (parts only, depends on how many mounts)

You Save: $250-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-5.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.