🔧 Civic - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Civic, “engine mounts” can mean multiple different mounts (engine-side, transmission-side, and torque mounts). The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount you’re replacing, so I want to lock that down before I walk you through unbolting anything.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.0 hours (per mount)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan directly; always use a wood block between the jack and the engine/transmission.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; the rear mount area can be near hot components.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8, 12-18 in long)
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Metric combination wrench set (10mm-19mm)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Trim clip remover
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (right/passenger-side) - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount (left/driver-side) - Qty: 1
• Lower torque mount (front) - Qty: 1
• Lower torque mount (rear) - Qty: 1
• Mount-to-bracket bolts/nuts (recommended if specified with mount) - Qty: As needed

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Plan to support the engine/transmission with a floor jack and wood block before loosening mount hardware. (A wood block spreads the load so you don’t crush parts.)

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Tell me which mount you’re replacing (so I can give exact steps + torque specs)

• Use a flashlight and look for the torn/cracked rubber mount.
• Reply with which one it is:
  • Right (passenger-side) upper engine mount (near the engine belt side)
  • Left (driver-side) upper transmission mount (under/near the battery tray area)
  • Lower front torque mount (down low, front side of engine/trans area)
  • Lower rear torque mount (down low, closer to firewall side)
• Most vibration at idle often points to an upper mount.

Step 2: Quick confirmation checks (no disassembly yet)

• Open the hood and have a helper start the car while you watch the engine (stay clear of moving parts).
• With the car stationary, have the helper gently “blip” the throttle (small rev). Excess rocking can indicate a failed mount.
• If you have a manual, also note if you feel a “clunk” during on/off throttle or shifting—this often points to a lower torque mount.

Step 3: Answer these 2 questions and I’ll give the full replacement procedure with exact torque specs

• Which mount are you replacing (right upper / left upper / lower front / lower rear / all of them)?
• Do you have access to a torque wrench (yes/no)?

---

✅ After Repair

• After the correct mount is installed, you’ll re-check for vibration at idle and for clunks on takeoff/shifts.
• You’ll also re-check that no hoses/wiring are stretched and that the engine sits level.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,200 (parts + labor, depending on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: $60-$450 (parts only, depending on how many mounts)

You Save: $290-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-3 hours per mount.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.