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2011 Chevrolet Equinox
2011 Chevrolet Equinox
LS - Inline 4 2.4L
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How to Replace Engine Mount 2010-2017 Chevrolet Equinox

How to Replace Engine Mount 2010-2017 Chevrolet Equinox

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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox (FWD/AWD)

Step-by-step mount identification, required tools/parts, engine support tips, and torque-spec guidance

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox (FWD/AWD)

Step-by-step mount identification, required tools/parts, engine support tips, and torque-spec guidance

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šŸ”§ Equinox - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Equinox, ā€œengine mountsā€ can mean the right (passenger-side) engine mount, the left transmission mount, and/or the lower torque struts (the mounts that control engine twist). The exact procedure and torque specs change depending on which mount you’re replacing and whether your Equinox is FWD or AWD.

Before I write the exact step-by-step with the correct torque specs: Which mount are you replacing (right/passenger engine mount, left/transmission mount, or lower torque strut), and is your Equinox FWD or AWD?

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.0 hours (varies by mount)


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
  • āš ļø You must support the engine before removing any mount; otherwise the engine can drop and damage wiring/hoses.
  • āš ļø Let the engine cool; you’ll work near hot exhaust parts.
  • āš ļø Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine support/jack.
  • āš ļø Battery disconnect may be needed if you’ll remove the starter/alternator area parts; I’ll confirm once you tell me which mount.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Socket set 8mm-21mm
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Ratchet 1/2"
  • Extensions 3" and 6"
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
  • Wrench set 10mm-21mm
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Jack pad block of wood 2x6

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
  • Lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
  • Lower torque strut mount bolts - Qty: 1 set

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, set the parking brake, and use wheel chocks.
  • Plan how you’ll support the engine: best method is an engine support bar (a crossbar that holds the engine from above).
  • If using a floor jack to support the engine, place a 2x6 wood block between the jack and the oil pan to spread the load.
  • Remove any plastic splash shields/undertrays as needed using a trim clip removal tool and socket set.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which mount you’re replacing

  • Open the hood and locate the upper mounts (right/passenger-side mount is typically at the passenger-side of the engine bay; the left mount is at the driver-side near the transmission).
  • Locate the lower torque strut mount(s) from underneath after safely lifting the vehicle with a floor jack and placing jack stands.
  • If you tell me which one, I’ll map exact steps.

Step 2: Support the engine

  • Install the engine support bar (specialty) and take up the engine weight slightly.
  • If you don’t have a support bar, raise a floor jack with the jack pad block of wood 2x6 gently under the engine (do not crush the oil pan).

Step 3: Stop here for correct torque specs and exact removal order

  • The correct bolt removal order and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values depend on the specific mount and whether you have FWD or AWD.
  • Reply with: (1) FWD or AWD and (2) which mount (right/passenger, left/transmission, or lower torque strut), and I’ll provide the complete numbered procedure with the exact torque specs.

āœ… After Repair

  • Double-check that all mount fasteners are tightened to spec (once provided) using a torque wrench.
  • Start the engine and watch for excessive movement while shifting from P to R and R to D with your foot firmly on the brake.
  • Test drive and listen for clunks on acceleration/braking transitions.
  • Recheck fasteners after a short drive if the mount design uses non-stretch bolts; I’ll confirm once I know the mount.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$900 (parts + labor, varies by mount and access)

DIY Cost: $60-$250 (parts only, varies by mount)

You Save: $290-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-3 hours.


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