🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee, the engine mounts (left and right) support the engine and isolate vibration. Replacing them involves safely supporting the engine, removing the mount fasteners, swapping the mount(s), then torquing everything to factory spec so the drivetrain sits correctly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before any mount bolts come out, or components can break.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; small movements can pinch.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; the right side is close to hot components.
• ⚠️ Recommended: disconnect the negative battery cable before working near wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6 in)
• Ratchet (3/8 in drive)
• Ratchet (1/2 in drive)
• Socket set metric 10mm-21mm
• Wrench set metric 10mm-21mm
• Torque wrench (10-250 Nm range)
• Breaker bar (1/2 in drive)
• Extension set (3/8 in drive)
• Universal joint adapter (3/8 in drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (small)
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left engine mount - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover by pulling upward firmly.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Decide how you will support the engine: an engine support bar (specialty) from above is preferred; a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan can work if used gently.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount(s) you’re replacing (quick check)

• Use a work light to look at both mounts for collapsed rubber, leaking fluid (hydraulic mount), or torn rubber.
• Tell me whether you’re replacing the right (passenger) mount, left (driver) mount, or both.

Step 2: Raise and safely support the vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the approved front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle on jack stands and verify stability before going underneath.

Step 3: Support the engine

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), position it across the strut towers and tension it just enough to carry engine weight.
• If using a floor jack, place a wood block (2x6 in) on the jack pad and contact the oil pan gently, then raise just until the engine weight is supported.
• Lift only a little; don’t dent the oil pan.

Step 4: Stop here—need 2 details to give exact OEM steps and torque specs

• I’ll provide the full factory-correct bolt locations, removal order, and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs once you answer the two questions below.

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✅ After Repair

• After the mounts are installed and torqued, verify the engine sits level and no hoses/wiring are stretched.
• Start the engine and check for new vibration, clunks on throttle blips, or warning lights.
• Road test at low speed, then recheck for any contact/rubbing and re-verify fasteners.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹45,000 (parts + labor, depends on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: ₹6,000-₹22,000 (parts only, depends on how many mounts)

You Save: ₹12,000-₹23,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-5.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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