🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Grand Cherokee involves safely supporting the 5.7L V8, lifting the engine slightly, removing the worn mounts, and installing new ones. Bad mounts can cause vibration at idle, clunks during acceleration, or excess engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers the left and right engine mounts on the AWD 5.7L V8.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine with a jack and wood block before removing any mount bolts.
• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body under an unsupported engine or vehicle.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid frame/support points; a floor jack alone is not safe.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and engine cool fully before starting.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable because your hands will be near starter and power wiring areas.
• ⚠️ AWD front axle, front differential, exhaust, and steering components reduce access, so work slowly and avoid forcing parts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6 minimum
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Penetrating oil
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Underbody shield clips - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Grand Cherokee on a level surface.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• Spray penetrating oil on the engine mount nuts and bolts before lifting the vehicle.
• A floor jack lifts the vehicle or engine; jack stands hold the vehicle safely while you work.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• Use the 3-ton floor jack to lift the front of your Grand Cherokee at the front crossmember area.
• Place 3-ton jack stands under the proper front frame support points.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine later.
• Shake lightly to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any 10mm shield fasteners.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.
• Use a work light to look up at both engine mounts from underneath.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block on the saddle of the 3-ton floor jack.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan near the thick reinforced area, not on the thin pan edge.
• Raise the jack until the wood block just contacts the oil pan.
• Lift only enough to slightly support engine weight.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Small movements are safest here.

Step 4: Loosen the Left Engine Mount Fasteners

• The left side is the driver side.
• Use an 18mm socket, 6-inch extension, universal joint socket adapter, and 1/2-inch ratchet to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use an 18mm wrench where the socket will not fit.
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lower mount fastener at the frame side.
• Do not fully remove the mount until all fasteners are loose.
• A universal joint adapter lets the socket bend slightly to reach awkward bolts.

Step 5: Loosen the Right Engine Mount Fasteners

• The right side is the passenger side.
• Use an 18mm socket, 6-inch extension, universal joint socket adapter, and 1/2-inch ratchet to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm wrench as needed for tight-clearance fasteners.
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lower mount fastener at the frame side.
• Watch nearby wiring, heat shields, and exhaust parts while working.

Step 6: Raise the Engine Slightly

• Use the floor jack and wood block to raise the engine slowly.
• Raise only enough to take pressure off the mounts and create removal clearance.
• Watch the fan shroud, hoses, exhaust, and wiring while lifting.
• Stop immediately if anything stretches, binds, or contacts the body.
• Lift less than you think.

Step 7: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Use the 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the loosened upper mount bolts.
• Use the 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower mount fastener.
• Work the left mount out through the available opening.
• If the mount catches, use the floor jack to raise or lower the engine slightly.
• Do not pry against the aluminum oil pan or exhaust.

Step 8: Install the New Left Engine Mount

• Place the new left engine mount into the same position and orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet to snug the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet to snug the frame-side fastener.
• Do not fully torque yet; the engine must settle into position first.

Step 9: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use the 18mm socket, extension, universal joint socket adapter, and ratchet to remove the upper mount bolts.
• Use the 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower mount fastener.
• Guide the right mount out carefully around nearby AWD and exhaust components.
• Adjust the floor jack slightly if more clearance is needed.

Step 10: Install the New Right Engine Mount

• Place the new right engine mount into position.
• Start every fastener by hand before tightening.
• Use an 18mm socket, extension, universal joint socket adapter, and ratchet to snug the upper bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet to snug the lower fastener.
• Confirm both mounts are seated flat and not pinched or twisted.

Step 11: Lower the Engine onto the Mounts

• Use the floor jack handle to slowly lower the engine onto both new mounts.
• Watch each mount as the engine weight settles.
• Make sure the bolt holes stay aligned.
• If a bolt binds, raise the engine slightly with the floor jack and reposition the mount by hand.

Step 12: Torque the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs with the correct 18mm socket.
• Tighten the engine mount-to-engine bracket bolts to Torque to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the engine mount-to-frame fasteners to Torque to 102 Nm (75 ft-lbs).
• If access is tight, use the 18mm wrench to hold the fastener and torque the nut side where possible.
• Do not guess by hand if the torque wrench can fit.

Step 13: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the lower splash shield into position by hand.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall any 10mm fasteners.
• Tighten splash shield fasteners snug only; plastic can crack if overtightened.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Grand Cherokee slowly to the ground.
• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the terminal until it does not rotate by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you listen for clunks or rubbing.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse and then Drive to check for abnormal movement.
• Take a short, slow test drive and listen during gentle acceleration and braking.
• Recheck the mount fasteners after the test drive if you heard any noise.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and any radio presets as needed.
• If vibration remains, inspect the transmission mount, exhaust contact points, and misfire-related engine shake.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$680 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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