🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Grand Cherokee involves safely supporting the 3.6L engine, removing the worn mounts, and installing new mounts without stressing the exhaust, wiring, or cooling hoses. Bad engine mounts can cause clunks, vibration at idle, harsh shifts, and excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands on solid ground.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before any mount bolts are removed.
• ⚠️ Do not place a jack directly against the aluminum oil pan without a wide wood block. The pan can crack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands away from mount brackets while raising or lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or engine harness.
• ⚠️ AWD models have tighter access around the front axle and front differential. Work slowly and do not force the engine upward.
• ⚠️ If a mount bolt feels cross-threaded, stop and realign the engine before tightening.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 16mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 13mm wrench
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• Ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive
• 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• 12-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive
• Universal joint socket adapter 3/8-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Plastic trim removal tool set
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Work light
• Paint marker
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: As needed if corroded or damaged
• Engine mount nuts - Qty: As needed if corroded or damaged
• Underbody shield fasteners - Qty: As needed if damaged

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool fully before working near the exhaust manifolds.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Plan to replace one engine mount at a time. This keeps the engine aligned.
• A universal joint socket adapter lets a socket bend slightly to reach bolts at an angle.
• A breaker bar is a long handle used to loosen tight bolts with more leverage.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Grand Cherokee at the approved front lifting point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before getting underneath.

Step 2: Remove the Front Underbody Shield

• Use a 10mm socket, 13mm socket, or plastic trim removal tool set to remove the lower shield fasteners, depending on which fasteners are installed.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to release any plastic push-pin centers.
• Lower the shield by hand and set it aside.
• Replace broken underbody shield fasteners during reassembly.

Step 3: Inspect Mount Access From Below

• Use a work light to locate the left and right engine mounts between the engine block brackets and the front cradle.
• Use a paint marker to mark each mount’s position before removal.
• Check that wiring, hoses, exhaust parts, and AWD components are not stretched or touching the mount brackets.
• Take photos before disassembly.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the saddle of the floor jack.
• Position the floor jack under the strongest flat area of the engine oil pan with the wood block spread across the pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until the wood block just contacts the oil pan.
• Add only slight upward pressure. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• The goal is to hold the engine weight, not jack the engine high.

Step 5: Loosen the Right Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 6-inch extension, and ratchet handle to loosen the right mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a 15mm wrench or 18mm wrench where socket access is limited.
• Use a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive if the fasteners are tight.
• Do not remove all fasteners yet. Loosen them first so the mount can shift slightly.

Step 6: Remove the Right Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine only enough to remove pressure from the right mount.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 6-inch extension, and ratchet handle to remove the right mount fasteners.
• Use a universal joint socket adapter 3/8-inch drive if a bolt angle is awkward.
• Keep one hand clear of the mount bracket while removing the final bolt or nut.

Step 7: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment pressure if the mount is stuck.
• Slide the right engine mount out from the cradle area.
• Do not pry against the oil pan, plastic covers, wiring, or coolant hoses.
• Compare the old and new right engine mount before installation.

Step 8: Install the New Right Engine Mount

• Position the new right engine mount in the same orientation as the old mount.
• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the engine slightly until the bolt holes line up.
• Install all right mount bolts and nuts by hand first.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a ratchet handle to snug the fasteners evenly.
• Do not fully torque until all fasteners are started by hand.

Step 9: Tighten the Right Engine Mount

• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct socket to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct socket to tighten the mount-to-cradle fasteners.
• Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
• If bolt sizes differ on your replacement mount, follow the mount manufacturer’s supplied torque sheet.

Step 10: Loosen the Left Engine Mount Fasteners

• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 12-inch extension, universal joint socket adapter, and ratchet handle to loosen the left mount fasteners.
• Use a 15mm wrench or 18mm wrench where there is not enough room for the socket.
• Do not remove the mount until the engine weight is slightly lifted off it.

Step 11: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine slightly until the left mount is no longer loaded.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with extensions to remove the left mount fasteners.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment if the mount is stuck.
• Slide the left mount out carefully without pulling on nearby wiring or hoses.

Step 12: Install the New Left Engine Mount

• Position the new left engine mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the engine slightly until the bolt holes align.
• Install all bolts and nuts by hand first.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a ratchet handle to snug the fasteners evenly.

Step 13: Tighten the Left Engine Mount

• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct socket to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct socket to tighten the mount-to-cradle fasteners.
• Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
• Tighten evenly so the mount does not twist.

Step 14: Lower the Engine Onto the New Mounts

• Use the floor jack to lower the engine slowly.
• Watch both mounts as the engine settles.
• Check that the rubber portions are not pinched or twisted.
• Remove the floor jack and wood block once the engine is fully supported by the mounts.

Step 15: Recheck All Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to recheck all mount fasteners after the engine is resting normally.
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount-to-cradle fasteners to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
• Use a work light to confirm no wiring, hoses, or shields are trapped under the mounts.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Underbody Shield

• Lift the underbody shield into position by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket, 13mm socket, or plastic trim removal tool set to reinstall the shield fasteners.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to lock any plastic push-pin centers.
• Snug the fasteners only. Do not overtighten plastic shields.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 18: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive with a 10mm socket to tighten the terminal clamp.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle in Park.
• ✅ Check for abnormal vibration, clunks, or rattles.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and listen for mount movement or knocking.
• ✅ Take a short, gentle road test and avoid hard acceleration at first.
• ✅ Recheck under the vehicle for loose shields, trapped wiring, or fluid leaks.
• ✅ If vibration is worse than before, stop driving and recheck mount orientation and fastener alignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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