How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011-2016 Ford F-150 (Left & Right) (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011-2016 Ford F-150 (Left & Right) (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 F-150 - Engine Mount Replacement
Replacing the engine mounts supports the engine correctly and reduces vibration, clunks, and drivetrain movement. On your F-150, the job is mainly about safely supporting the engine, unbolting the mounts, and installing the new ones without stressing hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; an unsupported engine can shift suddenly.
- ⚠️ Work on a flat surface; use jack stands under the frame, not just a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine with the jack.
- ⚠️ Do not lift on the oil pan without a wide wood block; the block spreads the load to prevent damage.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before starting.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent accidental shorts near the starter wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support
- Wood block (2x6, 12-18 in long)
- Socket set (8mm-21mm)
- Deep socket set (13mm-21mm)
- Wrench set (13mm-21mm)
- 1/2 in drive breaker bar
- 1/2 in drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
- 3/8 in drive ratchet
- 3/8 in drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
- Extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
- Universal joint swivel adapter
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Shop light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Left (driver-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
- Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove the ignition key.
- Use an 8mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal; move it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands; leave the suspension hanging for access.
- Spray engine mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
- Take photos before removing anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove plastic push-pins.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove any small bolts holding the shield.
- Set the shield and clips aside in a tray.
Step 2: Support the engine safely
- Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the fender rails and lightly tension it to take some engine weight.
- Position a floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support under the engine with a wood block (2x6, 12-18 in long) between the jack pad and the oil pan.
- Raise the jack just until the wood block contacts firmly; do not lift the truck.
- Lift only enough to unload the mounts.
Step 3: Locate and mark the engine mount positions
- Use a shop light to find the left and right mounts between the engine and the frame brackets.
- Use a paint marker to mark the mount-to-bracket alignment so the new mount sits similarly.
Step 4: Loosen (do not remove yet) the engine-side mount fasteners
- Use a deep socket set (15mm-21mm), extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in), and a universal joint swivel adapter as needed.
- Use a 1/2 in drive breaker bar to crack the fasteners loose.
- Leave the fasteners threaded in a few turns for now.
Step 5: Remove the mount-to-frame nuts/bolts
- From underneath, use a deep socket set (15mm-21mm) and 3/8 in drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-frame fasteners.
- If access is tight, use wrench set (13mm-21mm) to hold the opposite side while you loosen with a socket.
- Keep left and right hardware separated.
Step 6: Remove the engine-side fasteners and lift the engine slightly
- Use the socket set (13mm-21mm) to remove the engine-side fasteners you loosened earlier.
- Slowly pump the floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support to lift the engine just enough to create a gap above the mount studs.
- Watch hoses, wiring, intake tube, and fan shroud area while lifting; stop if anything pulls tight.
Step 7: Remove the old mount(s)
- Use your hands and a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the mount out of the frame pocket if it’s stuck.
- Note the orientation (which side faces forward).
- If you’re doing both mounts, remove and replace one side at a time to keep alignment easier.
Step 8: Install the new mount
- Place the new mount into the frame bracket by hand.
- Lower or raise the engine slightly using the floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support until the studs/holes line up.
- Start all fasteners by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- If it won’t start by hand, realign—don’t force.
Step 9: Torque the engine mount fasteners
- Snug all fasteners evenly using a 3/8 in drive ratchet and socket set (13mm-21mm).
- Torque fasteners using a 1/2 in drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs).
- Torque to OEM spec for your fastener set (varies by mount design and hardware).
- As a best practice, if you installed new hardware, torque in stages (example: 50%, then 100%).
Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and reconnect the battery
- Reinstall the shield using an 8mm socket and trim clip removal tool to seat push-pins.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using an 8mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle; listen for clunks or rubbing.
- With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and back; watch for excessive engine movement.
- Road test at low speed; recheck for vibrations on acceleration and deceleration.
- Recheck all visible fasteners for tightness after the first short drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $600-$1,300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $480-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Mount Kit replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2015 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2014 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2013 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2012 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2011 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |


















