🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee, “engine mounts” can mean the left engine mount, right engine mount, and/or the rear transmission mount. The steps, access points, and torque specs differ depending on which one you’re replacing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours (varies by mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before loosening mount bolts, or parts can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the engine and frame while lifting.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–21mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter (3/8")
• Wrench set (10mm–21mm)
• Pry bar (12")
• Trim clip tool
• Wood block (2x6, 12" long)
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Replacement mount bolts - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Use wheel chocks on the rear wheels.
• Plan to lift the front and support it on jack stands at the proper front jack points.
• Have a wood block ready; it spreads the load when supporting the engine with the jack.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Before I give you the exact steps and torque specs, I need 2 quick details:

• Which mount are you replacing: left, right, transmission mount, or all of them?
• Do you have a new mount(s) already, and does the box/instructions list any torque specs or “replace bolts” notes you can paste here?

Once I have that, I’ll give you the exact bolt locations, removal order, and torque values.

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✅ After Repair

• Verify the engine sits centered and doesn’t contact the shroud or exhaust.
• Test for vibration at idle in Park and Drive (foot on brake).
• Recheck visible fasteners after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.